What did you do in the 'workshop' today

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I've got some thick 9mm ply feederboards-in-waiting. Which have similarly gone askew before getting any stiffening rim attached.

Is sorting them really that simple? To dry, I'm thinking that most of the supers need to be empty and open, but to flatten the things (even one at a time) is going to need some weight … but though I currently do have some heavyish supers waiting to be scavenged, I don't want to be accidentally 'open feeding' …
Guidance please as I seek to extend my limited skill-set!

Put betweern two empty supers then cinch together with two ratchet straps at right angles
 
Building up another another batch of 5 brood, 5 supers 5 nucs floors and roofs. This time trying a different build method that doesn't need a router and gives a full 50mm of PIR everywhere and a square plan. This means that the 2 rail walls have 80mm thickness below the rails.
 
Put together a couple of flat pack supers.

This was my first time at doing this, and it was only when I stood one on top of the other that I realised that I had put a couple of pieces on upside down on one of them, with the result that I now have a nice little bee space gap on two sides :(

I'm going to try and carefully prise the incorrect pieces off at weekend, and then get them back on the right way round this time.

I just hope that my DIY skills are as poor as my reading of instructions and that they come away fairly easily.

Andy
 
Built my first brood box and three supers, soo much fun
 
Knocked up a lift, brood box and super for my spare hive.
 
Today I built a new open mesh floor.

I have incorporated a few ideas from seeing other designs and reading about problems that can happen with a traditional floor, so have tried to minimise the entry of wind driven rain, and robbing by wasps and mice.
Ok, probably a little over-engineered, but hey, I only have two hives. bee-smillie

Everything including the landing platform is inset in the 460x460 footprint, this is so that if the hive is transported or a sliding door restricter is in place, there are no projections from the basic square outline.

I've come to the conclusion that full width entrances are no more required than matchsticks, many hives have much smaller entrances than the maximum third width that I've given this one.
Any approximately sized block of wood placed flat against the doorway can be used to block or variably restrict it, without having anything projecting from the side or front of the hive. Having found that the supposedly identical sized entrances of my previous traditional floors were anything but, this removes one 'aggravation factor'.

The entrance is a "periscope" spanning a third of the width, the first half is vertical, the second coming back at 45 degrees so that the floor access is at the front edge of the hive. The periscope prevents wind driven rain being blown in, and the opening at the front edge avoids having a section of flat floor without mesh that I've seen in other periscope designs. The 45 degree slope also diverts dropped varroa back to the removable board.

The periscope opening is 9mm beespace, I have plenty of rodents in my garden, they've been a problem with my chicken eggs, don't know if they'll be attacking the hives in the winter but this should keep them out. It should also help against robbing by wasps as there's a much deeper defensive area than normal between the outer doorway and the inner hive floor.
I'm wondering if any wasps that do manage to enter the hive might also find it more difficult to flee a counter attack by the bees, as with a open mesh floor and no direct line of sight along the entrance, finding the exit won't be so easy.

I'm putting the second application of apiguard into the hive tomorrow, so will replace the old solid floor then. I plan to set the frames 'cold way', no difference with the OMF of course, but I think the ladies will prefer the access that way.

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Hi JBM, thanks for that, I found your doc in the forum a couple of weeks back and built my first floor based on it.
http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/picture.php?albumid=669&pictureid=3420
The change I made with that one (apart from using the lumpy offcuts of wood I had in the shed) was to add an extra vertical piece at the entrance to make it easier to put a door block in. The top layer of wood is a mini-eke to adjust for the size mis-match. The floor is exactly 460 square, but the old home-made brood box I have is too long one way and too short the other.

This latest one of mine was more of a design exercise, seeing if it was possible to reconcile a strict 460x460 exterior at all times, together with a minimum of unmeshed floor and high entrance security.
Time to build and scrap wood I had plenty of, but if I had many more hives then yes, I can see the savings in time and materials in the simpler design.
 
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Well I stripped and cleaned a carburettor off a John deere ride on mower and got it running well pleased. Use it to mow the apiary now
 
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In husband's workshop I demolished three MB hives that had been made up to 14x12 by adding an eke to two supers. I now have six extra MB boxes to store my wet frames in.In my workshop I have rendered the last of the greenhouse tomatoes, peppers and aubergines together with courgettes and onions from the veg plot into pasta sauce....now to find freezer room. The last of the blackberries are juicing ready to be made into blackberry and honey jelly and into melomel. I went out to the watch the bees for a bit of a rest and wished I hadn't. The bees in the three hives being treated with Apilife are fighting to get out for a breath of fresh air. Pity the poor queen who can't do the same. Poor bees!
Do you think easing out the inspection tray an inch would do much harm?
 
If you have a standard floor I would remove the entrance block, in this heat.

Cleaned the mess up in my shed and stored most of the supers
 
Painted the roofs and crown boards I have made. Stacked wet supers as per JBM's instructions, sealed edges and strapped down with a ratchet strap and put a roof over the lot for the winter. Tidied the garage and sorted all the bee kit. Its all on show now :( so need to think of something when I come back from the T*****S sale next weekend with even more kit.
 
I put a new blade in my bandsaw - I picked up two sheets of 5mm polycarbonate for £25, 1000mm x 560mm which will make 4 new clear crown boards - very cheap at £6.25 each ! So, I cut the first one to 460mm width and then discovered that the cut out in the bottom of my Paynes poly super (which is going to house a feeder) is 5mm deep so the plan changed and I decided to make the polycarb fit the recess and glue a flange around the edge which will marry up with the external dimensions of the super and provide bee space above the frames. Ran out of superglue !
 
I put a new blade in my bandsaw - I picked up two sheets of 5mm polycarbonate for £25, 1000mm x 560mm which will make 4 new clear crown boards - very cheap at £6.25 each ! So, I cut the first one to 460mm width and then discovered that the cut out in the bottom of my Paynes poly super (which is going to house a feeder) is 5mm deep so the plan changed and I decided to make the polycarb fit the recess and glue a flange around the edge which will marry up with the external dimensions of the super and provide bee space above the frames. Ran out of superglue !

A great price. I looked in my local BBQ and they were nearly £30 each so I put them back.

Where did you get them P?

H
 
A great price. I looked in my local BBQ and they were nearly £30 each so I put them back.

Where did you get them P?

H

Got a deal from a seller on ebay .. price included postage ... last two sheets that he had that would take 460 x460 crown board sizes. Keep your eyes peeled on ebay for 'polycarbonate offcuts' .. they do come up quite often. You can get smaller offcuts most of the time and you can glue them edge to edge with superglue to make up the 460mm square ... Try these people...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171367020...l?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=171367020385&_rdc=1
 
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