Modules 1 and 3 revision help please

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Biddly

New Bee
Joined
Nov 14, 2009
Messages
64
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Location
North Wiltshire
Hive Type
Langstroth
Number of Hives
2
I am about to start studying to take modules 1 and 3 in November. My local association is only doing beginner courses and no study groups for the modules. I therefore wondered if any members here know of any helpful revision links or study group notes which would be of help to me please. Also, any tips, pointers and essential additional books to read advice ( in addition to the Yates study notes ) would be very much appreciated, especially from those who have already taken these modules and ' speak from experience ' of the trials and tribulations along the pre exam study road. In advance, can i thank everyone for your much needed help. I am very grateful to you all.
 
Past papers if you can get them , keep practicing the questions
 
Thank you so much for the information. It's such a help. I haven't taken a written exam in over 30 years so i'm finding the prospect quite daunting and i'm very apprehensive. Plus the old grey matter isn't what is was....... !
 
Module 1 is pretty straight forward, standard whines about needing to memorise frame sizes not withstanding. It's all about honeybee management, apiary layout, why you choose/chose the hive you did over that hive (if you assumed that the two most likely to come up are Langstroth and Nationals perhaps).

For your chosen method(s) of swarm control and prevention, why do you undertake the steps that you do, what does it achieve and why?

Understand the basics of Honeybee lifecycle, how long from Egg to emerging for Queens, workers and Drones. Why do queens go drone laying, what causes drone laying workers and what actions can you take to rectify that situation? If you lose a queen what can you do? Why do you clip (or not as the case may be) and why do you mark queens? What do you put on your record cards? Why do you keep record cards?

I posted on here somewhere the paper for Module 1 for 2010, that should give you a reasonable idea of the sort of questions that come up. All of them list the points that you'll get for the answer so if it's a single point, give a single sentence answer, 10 points give an answer with around 10 different things and so on.

Section C on all the Modules is now far more about demonstrating that you understand why something is happening or why you do something to rectify a situation. Sections A, especially, and B still have a fairly heavy emphasis on remembering stuff. This is apparently changing in future to be far more "demonstrate an understanding of..." but I believe for the march exams at least, the current format will remain.

Contrary to popular belief, on here at least, the modules aren't about reciting the approved BBKA "Thou shalt keep bees thusly" but if you're going to claim that Jam is a brilliant anti varroa treatment be able to back that assertion up.

Module 3 is far more involved. It is supposed to be shifting emphasis from Disease to honeybee health it's a subtle distinction, but in addition to covering diseases I'd also think about things that you do to keep a colony healthy and why you do those things (outside of an IPM scheme, changing combs perhaps)

There is an expectation that you'll know the Latin/Scientific name for things, at least for the main conditions. There is a big emphasis, unsurprisingly on the Foul Broods and Varroa but you also need to what's a virus, what's bacterial, what's a parasite and whats a fungal disease and what else they might indicate is going on in your colony. Apiary Hygiene might appear in module three or it might appear in module one, IPM is certainly likely to come up.

Read up on things that you don't use, understand what they do and perhaps why you don't use them. In an ideal world I wouldn't go near them with a ten foot barge pole, but I included Pyrethoids in my IPM scheme in the Module 3 exam. Outlined why I don't use them as a matter of course and why I might consider using them (and what actions I'd take if I did use them in an apiary).

The FERA booklets for AFB/EFB, Varrao, Small Hive Beetle and Tropilaelaps are no brainers to use to study for module three, they're free, excellent and cover about 75% of what is likely to come up.

Things that aren't that common where you treat for varroa like Acarine and Braula coeca are also worth reading up on.

To a lesser degree Wax Moth, Woodpeckers, mice etc are all likely to make an appearance but probably not in the big point questions unless part of a wider preparation type question. It's not essential but knowing that a mouse is (I hope or I've forgotten already) micus domesticus won't hurt but you wouldn't fail it if that's all you forget :)


[edit]

I'd also add that I found both these modules incredibly useful, especially as we had study groups for them within our association. Even if you don't intend to sit the exams I'd recommend doing the study groups. I think it's very easy to "tunnel vision" in beekeeping, you do something like this and forget to question why you're doing it and whether it might still be the "best" way of doing something; these Modules force you to take a step back, dig down into why you do things, what else is going on out there and make you consider alternatives.

[edit edit] Link to module 1 paper: http://www.beekeepingforum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=60229#post60229

I thought I'd scanned the module three paper but I haven't which means it's buried somewhere I'll try and dig that out and get a post up.
 
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Module 1 is pretty straight forward, standard whines about needing to memorise frame sizes not withstanding. .

from 2012 the need for exact frames sizes has been remove ( ie they have reverted back to the old syllabus on frames so all you need is a rough estimate ie 14x12 is a third bigger than a national deep etc)

the exam marking method on the BBKA site gives a guidance for module 2 but gives a reasonable idea of what is needed. for other modules...try to do the module 2 paper on the bbka web first then compare your answers to the marking method on the bbka web site
 
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from 2012 the need for exact frames sizes has been remove ( ie they have reverted back to the old syllabus on frames so all you need is a rough estimate ie 14x12 is a third bigger than a national deep etc)

the exam marking method on the BBKA site gives a guidance for module 2 but gives a reasonable idea of what is needed. for other modules...try to do the module 2 paper on the bbka web first then compare your answers to the marking method on the bbka web site

I'm sure there'll be many who still get their knickers in a twist that knowing that a 14x12 is x% bigger than a national still requires you to have an idea of relative hive sizes :D
 
Knowing relative hive sizes is really useful when comparing methods of doing things to adapt to your own set-up and talking to other beekeepers. Exact numbers of mm not unless you're doing a design and build (and can then look it up). Sorted.

What will the anti-exam lobby talk about now I wonder ;)?
 
Module 3 question

What difference does time of year make in the decision as to whether or not the SBI will destroy a colony he finds to be infected with EFB?

Hoping someone will explain. it is easier to remember if it makes sense.
 
And another question please...about EFB. it says

EFB doesn't make spores and the SBI may issue a license for ripe honey to be removed from the apiary after the expiry of the standstill notice, and then it must be stored for at least 6 months before it is offered for sale.....

Well i don't get that either. If it is in vegetative form, will the EFB bacterium live outside a living cell for very long? How long? How long could it live in honey?? is the above a reasonable precaution or is it excessive?
 
Not giving you the answer but, think about the non destruction procedures, when is a better time of year for the bees to handle this well? Also think about a small or weak colony, how will that handle the procedure? Think also of when it would be hard/impossible for the colony deal with it.
If using antibiotics, which isnt good for the immune system of anything, when would be the best time/better chance for them to recover?

Hope this helps and hasn't confused you:.) Reply to post 10

What difference does time of year make in the decision as to whether or not the SBI will destroy a colony he finds to be infected with EFB?

Hoping someone will explain. it is easier to remember if it makes sense.
 
THx. Of course. Shook swarm can only be when is warm enough to make wax and warm enough to forage or take syrup.

I guess I don't really know the effect of anti biotics on bees....
 
Ironically today my mate called me out to look at his bees, because there were just a few cells that weren't right. There were about 6 melted looking larvae with poor segmentation that we pulled out. 4 of them had varroa on, even though they are their 4th week 2nd pack of Apiguard- put on third pack (looked at tray - drop in a week still over 1000). One of the larvae had a visible pink gut.

I've never seen EFB..... He will get a test kit and put call in to FERA.
Is this what the early stage of EFB looks like?
 
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