What did you do in the Apiary today?

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I inspected my garden bees. The hive that was a demaree which turned into an a/s has a QE over the entrance whilst I await queenie getting fatter. She is laying in there but so many bees I couldn't find her. The parent part I took down all but one QC. I did save two and pop them in apideas. The colony I made from this hive is now in a full 14/12 box and doing well.
 
If you put one shorter frame in the brood box queen will lay drones underneath - at least you can lift it out to inspect withou tearing the brood open.



Thanks. That may be an idea. Do you think that would slow what they are doing at the bottom of the brood frames towards the omf?

To be honest it's what they are doing on the top of those frames, storing nectar, that is my worst problem.
 
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I think I either have wild comb fiends or something is up with my bee space......

Think I'm going to have to get someone from my association to have a look.

Good idea to get somebody to check things over for you, then you'll know why they're making all the wild comb.
 
That is a great picture TryingTLTB. The spores look quite fat and stubby...mine were more pointy. I've just done the second treatment spraying of thymol. Since last time the queen has laid up a lot more eggs and all is looking better. I didn't think improvement would be so quick and am hoping it continues. What treatment are you going to use or was this from a dead colony?
 
If you put one shorter frame in the brood box queen will lay drones underneath - at least you can lift it out to inspect withou tearing the brood open.
But what would that achieve?

Thanks. That may be an idea. Do you think that would slow what they are doing at the bottom of the brood frames towards the omf?

To be honest it's what they are doing on the, the gap seems as good a place as any to put it top of those frames, storing nectar, that is my worst problem.

No

Bees don't like anything more or less than beespace, also, because you are on brood and a half they are just joining the two parts together - as they like a certain amount of drone in the hive the gap between the two frames is as good a place as any to put it.
 
Did two splits, one planned - that hive had gotten enormously strong and still is even after the split. The other I had assumed had swarmed after finding no eggs last week. However, she's gone berserk with her egg-laying and there were 3 QC's so there are now 2 hives.

I also filled an apidea with bees and tomorrow I'll add the only QC to come out of my first attempt at grafting 20 cups - that's a 4% success rate :)
 
I have heard that using Apiguard in the autumn protects against Nosema. Is that true? If so, I think I'll continue with it rather than switch to oxalate.
 
I have heard that using Apiguard in the autumn protects against Nosema. Is that true? If so, I think I'll continue with it rather than switch to oxalate.

Thymol according to some research helps against nosema.
 
But what would that achieve?



No

Bees don't like anything more or less than beespace, also, because you are on brood and a half they are just joining the two parts together - as they like a certain amount of drone in the hive the gap between the two frames is as good a place as any to put it.



Thanks. I'm going to double check all my spacing is correct and the frames are directly above and below Beyond that, I'm calling in the cavalry.
 
Thymol according to some research helps against nosema.

All my hives were treated with thymol in the autumn and at Xmas were treated for varroa. I still lost colonies. When we tested the dead hives there were lots of nosema...i think they were Ceranae....but my microscope skills are not brilliant. Anyway nosema at any rate. When we tested the slow colony ...same thing though we were alerted initially by some bee poo around the entrance. In some trials I read about...it said the thymol effect was accumulative...so successive drops in numbers over several seasons. I wonder if treating them with thymol spraying in the early autumn would be a good idea? Any thoughts on that?
 
@TTLTB.
If you used the standard of 1 ml water per bee, to make up your nosema soup, that is a very heavy infection, with that many spores in the field of view.
In fact when I took my microscopy exam, my slide looked much the same. The examiner asked if that was what I was expecting, and I said it was the last thing as the colony appeared healthy. He asked if he could have some of the nosema soup for a demo, as he had not seen such a heavy infection.
 
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Better still....thymolised syrup as autumn feed

Yes...mine had that last year...I have lots of comb full of it as they stored it but then died before eating it. What shall I do with it all?It's been in the freezer until we found out about the nosema. Will it be unsafe or will the thymol have killed the spores?
 
@jenkinsbrynmair @alldigging . Thanks: I'll go with Apis (phew). In any case have decided they need a feed (lack of foragers, see) and happen to have some heavily-thymolated syrup knocking around from last year. We'll see.

ADD @drex : it's probably about ten times thicker than that. My first microscopy for 40 years: wanted to make sure I saw something if it was there. But I think it is pretty heavy anyway.
 
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Checked all mine today,lots of honey in the supers,average around 20lbs per hive which is very good for me for this early in the season.added test frames to a couple that should have virgins that i expected to be laying by now but aren't.

The 3 hives i've demareed are all going very well and have each drawn a full brood box of foundation beautifully in the last 2 weeks.

Well happy with the start to the season:winner1st:
 

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