BeeBase - August 2017

[B+.]

This should answer many of the overwintering problems that have been asked in this forum recently (http://www.nationalbeeunit.com/public/News/news.cfm#190)

 

[user 6228]

Adequate Feeding

As a rule of thumb, a full size colony should have about 25kg+ of honey stores to get through the winter and into the first part of our unpredictable springs. Therefore, many beekeepers will feed around 25kg of thick sugar syrup (1kg of sugar to 630ml of water) between August and September. This amount of feed would usually last a colony 5 – 6 months during the winter, however, with changeable weather, food stores should be monitored after the New Year and if they look like they are running short, sugar candy of some type can be fed. Don’t forget colonies also need adequate pollen provisions and will need two full sized deep frames of pollen to see them over winter. If this is not present, then a suitable pollen substitute should be fed, readily obtainable from the bee equipment suppliers.

Beebase Locked into the no insulation add ventilation paradigm ?

 

[B+.]

Beebase Locked into the no insulation add ventilation paradigm ?

There is a lot of good advice on there. Lets not make it just about heat.

 

[dolbz]

Beebase Locked into the no insulation add ventilation paradigm ?

Where in your quote does it mention ventilation?

 

[user 6228]

Where in your quote does it mention ventilation?

in trying to expend so many kilos of sugar in what some would describe a mild climate. To expend that amount implies a high heat loss hive which then implies high condensation... which then makes ventilation become an issue,
elsewhere on beebase they write: " Hive insound condition, waterproof and well ventilated.
Apiary sites need choosing carefully to ensure that they have good access in all weather, firm but well drained ground, sunny, not in a frost pocket, good air circulation,etc. Damp rather than cold kills bees so check
hives, especially roofs, to ensure rain is shed away.".
if you want to read more about the interaction of insulation and top ventilation read this
Mitchell Derek. (2017). Honey Bee Engineering: Top Ventilation and top Entrances. American Bee Journal, 157(8), 887–889.

 

[user 6228]

There is a lot of good advice on there. Lets not make it just about heat.

but it shows their advice doesnt acknowledge the changes in practice that come with poly hives beyond sterilizing them with bleach.

 

[B+.]

but it shows their advice doesnt acknowledge the changes in practice that come with poly hives beyond sterilizing them with bleach.

I don't disagree with you. There is always room for improvement. I just think there was other useful information in that link that would help other beekeepers (particularly newer beekeepers) prepare for winter.

 

[bontbee]

....elsewhere on beebase they write: " Hive insound condition, waterproof and well ventilated.
.... good air circulation....

Does "ventilation" or "good circulation" necessarily imply top ventilation, which I think is what you are alluding to? (I'll put a in, in anticipation ) And a just in case PS: I haven't read the whole doc, just your quotes!

 

[user 6228]

Does "ventilation" or "good circulation" necessarily imply top ventilation, which I think is what you are alluding to? (I'll put a in, in anticipation ) And a just in case PS: I haven't read the whole doc, just your quotes!

later in "preparing for winter"

"Damp rather than cold kills bees so check hives, especially roofs, to ensure rain is shed away. It is best to ensure that your hives are off the ground on suitable stands. If your apiary site is not vulnerable to windy conditions, and you are using open mesh floors, they can be left with the floor inserts out. If not, or your hives are on solid floors, then you can lift the crown board on two-millimetre laths. Used matchsticks are excellent for this purpose." (my emphasis)

there is no mention of what to do in winter in relation to poly hives.

 

[madasafish]

later in "preparing for winter"

"Damp rather than cold kills bees so check hives, especially roofs, to ensure rain is shed away. It is best to ensure that your hives are off the ground on suitable stands. If your apiary site is not vulnerable to windy conditions, and you are using open mesh floors, they can be left with the floor inserts out. If not, or your hives are on solid floors, then you can lift the crown board on two-millimetre laths. Used matchsticks are excellent for this purpose." (my emphasis)

there is no mention of what to do in winter in relation to poly hives.

You don't seriously expect them to be up to date? After all, poly hives were first
introduced to the UK only 30 or so years ago...

 

[For want of a better word]

Books vary on feeding for winter from 40lbs ( 18 kg ) to 60 lbs... 28 kg of sugar.
It seems to depend on a lot of factors from greedy Mediterranean type bees to frugal Native type... if the beekeeper has left bees brood frames of honey stores or raided the lot... to insulation and ventilation..... or lack of it. Solid or OMF to polly or thin timber hives.

Whatever..... the NBU advice is to feed your bees !!
Yeghes da