Pruning

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Hi all

I'm not very green fingered so I was hoping someone could give me some advice about pruning.

In early 2013 I planted two apple trees on M26 (from Ken Muir and Chris Bowers). Both were bareroot and I assume 1 or 2 years old. Early in 2014 I planted a number of bareroot hedging plants between them, my idea being that I wanted a nice hedge with the apple trees growing above it. The hedging plants were:

1 year old dog rose
2 year old Blackthorn and field maple
3 year old Amelanchier, Hazel, Hornbeam, Quickthorn

I'm now wondering about pruning them. I've spoken to a couple of people and come away with conflicting advice so I thought I'd ask here.

I'd like to grow quite a thick hedge, so I was intending to prune the hedging plants back but have then been told not too as they're too young. But then I've also read people advising early hard pruning in order to develop a hedge with a nice dense bottom.

I was also wondering if it's too late to prune. Both the apple trees and the hedging plants have buds starting to form on them and I don't want to start chopping them back if the sap has started to rise (or atleast that's what I've been told!)

Any advice kindly accepted!
 
Best to prune the hedge after a year to get branches from near the base of the plant. The dog rose will need constant pruning to keep it under control.
Once the hedge has reached the desired height, keep cutting the leader shoot to desired height, this will enable the hedge to thicken up.

Some advocate to grow the hedge in stages, to it thick throughout its height. If the desired height is 5 ft. Take the tops out at 3 ft , the following year to 4 ft

Its not too late to prune the apple trees, this should be done by removing any crossing branches and remove any growth that will prevent an open centre.

M26 is a vigorous root stock, you will need to prune back the branches to an outward pointing bud to your desired height. This year do not be too harsh with the pruning as the tree is in the development stage and it now it will make its frame;

Hope this is helpful.
 
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M26 are dwarfing stock so your hedge needs to be quite low. The dog roses you can twine into the hedge no probs there as they will flower better that way. All Roses flower profusely on the lateral branches.
Hazel is quite thuggish so you will have to cut it down, but you could layer it. Perhaps make some baskets with the whips, or bean poles with the larger stems.
Blackthorn will infill, giving a thorny protective barrier. Keep this cut down, you won't do it any harm, and you could layer it too and get some Slows for the Gin.
 
In fact, it sounds lovely.
Basket weave of hedge 4' or 5' high with Hazel, thickened out with thorny Blackthorn and Field Maple, etc, lots of roses and Sloes. Above an intermittent bush of fruit.
The hedge does need to be managed quite intensively if you want the fruit trees to survive.
 
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I should have mentioned M26 is a vigorous dwarfing rootstock. The height and vigour of the tree will depend on the variety. I have planted a small orchard on M26 of traditional Norfolk varieties. The most vigorous variety is now 7 ft tall the shortest is about 3ft6.

I have also planted almost a kilometre of mixed hedging (mainly blackthorn, hawthorn, field maple, hazel with holly gelder rose, dog rose mixed in. I have also planted within the hedge Oak, Ash and beach to become specimen trees..

This was done 4 yrs ago and they now require clipping back to 4 foot.
 
Orangepippin seems to suggest that the two I've got will grow to about 7', though I suspect they're that tall already! I'll measure and get a photo when I get home.

The apple trees have about 50cm gap between them and the nearest hedge plant which I was planning on keeping until they were well established.
 
:sorry:

but what makes you think I am a Madam, Dusty?

Just look at the little symbol below your name to the left of your post...
 
:sorry:

but what makes you think I am a Madam, Dusty?



Madasafish is right.

But for the avoidance of doubt, I was addressing you as "madam" and not suggesting that you might be a "Madam".*

Dusty

* Though your entry under "Occupation" does make one wonder how you pass the working day.
 
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for the avoidance of doubt, I was addressing you as "madam" and not suggesting that you might be a "Madam".*

I knew that, really, Dusty - you are far to much of a gentleman to make such an innuendo (and we all know what that is, jbm! :D).

PS I chose pink as it matches my eyes.
 
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How have we managed to go from Pruning to suppository on this tread!!!

I will have to think of a subject which will stimulate as much varied discussion !!
 
One point which was maybe to basic for anyone to mention so far is that for pruning fruit trees you need to use either a good pair of secateurs or a special pruning knife. For cutting back your hedge my weapon of choice would be a hedge trimmer, either electric or petrol.
The harder and more frequently you cut back your hedge within reason, the thicker it will be.

Long and quite complicated books have been written on pruning fruit trees- I'd suggest looking at some examples of pruning young apple trees with diagrams either on the web or wherever else you can find them. Having looked, if you have supplementary questions by all means ask again :)

Cheers

Nick
 
With Apples trees, pruning in summer stimulates growth of the branch. Pruning in winter fools the tree into thinking it isn't growing so best to produce as many flowers as possible the next spring. You can prune summer or winter or both. I depend what you want the tree to do.
 

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