Had a look at the video.
There have been hives similar in the past, and this one seems to have no advantages whatsoever. It will be very annoying to the bees to work with, slow, indeed very slow, to get through, pieces will break and/or get lost.
Plastic frames with clips on the corners? No thank you. Been there, tried that, sent the lot to recycling..........a dumb error that cost me about 15K!
Plastic excluders? Tried several brands and NONE of them are any use compared to the traditional wooden framed wire excluders. The bees swarm far quicker under a plastic excluder due to varying degrees of reluctance to work through them
Would not touch it with a bargepole.
And the lipped edges...............until you really try to work with these in any numbers you may not appreciate what a total pain they are.
Not gone into this in any detail on the MB box thread but the *main* reason is thus.
When the boxes are stuck together, and ladder comb has the frames in the broodbox attached to whatever is above, be it an excluder, a super, or especially another brood box (we need that arangement extensively in the second half of the season), you MUST be able to get the hive tool directly in to ensure the frames in the bottom box do not get pulled up at all significantly when removing the upper item.
With a lipped box this is not possible, hence the old style lipped boxes actually had a metal bar across the top bars at each end to hold the lower frames down while the upper box was removed. You then spent what would seem like forever unscrewing the four screws and removing the bars to get inot the nest, then replacing them again at the end.
If you have to haul the box up half an inch or so to get the frames apart you cause huge annoyance to the bees in the nest area, slow down the operation considerably if you are going to be careful, and, this is the big killer, when you haul the frames up unintentionally, as does happen with these boxes, you can and do nip or roll a queen or two, and with black bees which are naturally jumpier this is a serious issue. We did experiments with the Rea Dan design.......which has a relatively low lip........and queen loss was greater than in unlipped designs where you did not need to achieve so great a movement before getting the tool in. It actually translated into a large amount of money lost each year..........the working was slower by 20% so running costs went up on a perhive basis, plus considerably fewer of the hives were 'biggies' at the heather due to recovering from queen loss. If we had gone for lipped poly instead of plain jointed it worked out at a lesser profit of about 25K per annum.