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More or less the exact same traps I've made. No wasps in them yet but not seeing them around the hive any more either so fingers crossed they're not a problem. Thanks newbeeman.
 
More or less the exact same traps I've made. No wasps in them yet but not seeing them around the hive any more either so fingers crossed they're not a problem. Thanks newbeeman.

It is not the width of the entrance it is the depth that is more effective and easier to defend, make a entrance block 100mm deep with a 100mm wide and 8mm high bee space, it is more like a tunnel so instead of the wasps going in and straight up into the hive, they have too fight they way through the tunnel which they loose every time, even more so if the entrance is reduced down to a 50mm wide tunnel using a shim of wood for a weaker hive.
This is only my second year with bees but i had terrible trouble with wasps last Autumn and that entrance block helped ten fold thanks to a clever members advice. (it also acts as a mouse guard during winter) .

As for trapping them don't mess about with pop bottles, they sharp fill up and in the end the wasps escape and bring more recruits, once the pop bottle trap is full you will see dozens trying to gain access to your hive, (well i did) , that was until i bought a fair priced Waspbane trap, so thinking back the reduced tunnel entrance and the Waspbane worked well.
 
I like the idea of a tunnel. Thanks I'll get my saw out tomorrow.
 
It is not the width of the entrance it is the depth that is more effective and easier to defend, make a entrance block 100mm deep with a 100mm wide and 8mm high bee space, it is more like a tunnel so instead of the wasps going in and straight up into the hive, they have too fight they way through the tunnel which they loose every time, even more so if the entrance is reduced down to a 50mm wide tunnel using a shim of wood for a weaker hive.
This is only my second year with bees but i had terrible trouble with wasps last Autumn and that entrance block helped ten fold thanks to a clever members advice. (it also acts as a mouse guard during winter) .

As for trapping them don't mess about with pop bottles, they sharp fill up and in the end the wasps escape and bring more recruits, once the pop bottle trap is full you will see dozens trying to gain access to your hive, (well i did) , that was until i bought a fair priced Waspbane trap, so thinking back the reduced tunnel entrance and the Waspbane worked well.



Does the front of the block stay flush with the front of the brood box, and then extend under the frames?
 
Does the front of the block stay flush with the front of the brood box, and then extend under the frames?

Yes and yes, here is the one i made and i will always use this idea from now on after seeing it successfully defended against nuisance wasps,it also acts as a mouse guard for winter.

hive%20entrance%20002_zpszpygamc9.jpg


hive%20entrance%20001_zpsmnnhinmt.jpg
 
Yes and yes, here is the one i made and i will always use this idea from now on after seeing it successfully defended against nuisance wasps,it also acts as a mouse guard for winter.

hive%20entrance%20002_zpszpygamc9.jpg


hive%20entrance%20001_zpsmnnhinmt.jpg

Love this will be making some of these...! Thanks.
 
Would it be worth cutting diagonally across the timber to give a longer tunnel?
So the front of the block would look exactly the same but the far side would have the hole on the right.
 
your other option is an underfloor entrance - stays full width throughout the year so no worry when the bees are on a mission, less draughts, no need for mouse guards and the wasps hate them.
 

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your other option is an underfloor entrance - stays full width throughout the year so no worry when the bees are on a mission, less draughts, no need for mouse guards and the wasps hate them.

Dear JBM
I don't suppose you have that attachment as a pdf? pretty please.
 
Does this help?
 

Attachments

  • The Brynmair slant on the Dartington inspired floor-1.pdf
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