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As a group do you think we could make this work ?
Overwintering Nuc's into the hundred's between us ?

To quote Simon Cowell - Admin..................... 2 yesses!

VEG - So far this season I have housed 5 swarms and hatched 15 queens. The bees natural instinct is to reproduce and expand. It isn't hard to get them doing what come natural.

Nellie, if you find a frame with a queen cell - move it to a nuc with another frame of bees. Hope the queen hatches and mates and if she does, you have created a nuc. No rockets, no physics, just nature at her very best.
 
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The other thing that puts people off is that queen rearing is talked about as though it is some sort of rocket science.
:cheers2:

Yes, there will always be a requirement for the grafting etc, but my view is make use of the bees natural ability and "go forth and multiply"

As is often quoted “they have been doing it for millions of years”

KISS (Keep it simple stupid)
 
I'd potentially be interested. Might not have enough bees or experience to do much this year, but I'd be happy to offer services of value in the meantime (database administrator/developer by trade, for example).
 
Bucket of water time.

Setting three nucs on a hive? If you mean splitting a brood box and having three mini colonies on top of a parent hive Gavin there are difficulties with that. Most likely result will be one remaing out of the three.

Why is there the demand for nucs in spring? Is it really from newbies? I doubt it. Is it from established beekeepers who have lost stocks or all stocks more likely over winter? Most likely yes.

30% Losses. I would think in general that is low. Due to lack of time last autumn I had to put my bees to bed in not the best of states and duly paid the penalty of 60% losses. I am not balming fancy chems or varroa or Uncle tom and all, just the face int he mirror. It was me.

When I ran AMM, and very pure AMM at that I had regular losses of 30 to 40% and factored that in to the operation.

There is a reluctance to try and over winter nucs as they are thought to be too vulnerable. I managed, in a very sheltered location I have to say to get a colony through on three super frames. Ho hum... Plus the other two came through well. Which in turn begs the question was my winter site a death trap but thats another matter again.

I intend putting down for winter 15 five frame nucs with the hope that I will have some 10 to sell next spring. Thereby begin to recoup some of my start up expenses which as you can imagine are not insubstantial. Just heading towards the £1500 mark and rising.

So why do so few people rear queens? Because they are told it is difficult and they need lots of bees to manage it well. Now that 2nd part is true.

I didn't feel comfortable with starting my program until I had more than 6 or 8 boxes to play with so I have the numbers to do what I have to do.

Further I am going to see if any of the mini nucs will take a queen through the winter for me as having set them up for the first batch of queens I may as well indulge and see what happens with a 2nd batch. I happen to have the luxury of some 25 minis to hand.

Lastly. Co-operation. Sorry but I chuckled at this. Do you think honestly this has never been tried before? Course it has and died over and over. It may work this time and I am up for being a part of it but.........

"I hae ma doots."

PH
 
The other thing that puts people off is that queen rearing is talked about as though it is some sort of rocket science.
:cheers2:

Exactly right.
I laugh at some of the descriptions which give the idea that it is some kind of magic art only learned after 30 years at the feet of a master beekeeper.
Unless you have a need to rear hundreds of queens there is absolutely no mystique at all regarding queen rearing.
Any competent beekeeper should be able to double up colony numbers quite easily each year.
Use the cells from your best colony or as Finman suggests, change the larva in the queen cell for one from your best colony or your neighbours best colony if he has better bees.
My local BKA is planning on rearing several hundred queens for members this year. I think the price is £15 quid or £65 for a nuc.
 
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Jim I think that is a very brave and bold move. But Veg is right, you have made a commitment to supply your customers this year and you really need to honour that and them. If you don't they will go elsewhere and you damage your future business.

But there is no reason why you cannot adopt the overwintered approach for 2010 onwards.
 
Lastly. Co-operation. Sorry but I chuckled at this. Do you think honestly this has never been tried before? Course it has and died over and over. It may work this time and I am up for being a part of it but.........

"I hae ma doots."

PH

I do wonder If we would have more of a chance of coperating though,without all the committe's white papers and working parties thing we may have a better chance,at least the ratio of chiefs to indians would be better.
 
Jon at that price can i join and i will take 2 nucs :cheers2:
 
I am off to saw up some timber for box's,I will be interested to see how this thread develops.
 
As we are talking about queen rearing how about someone who knows how, doing a write up in simple terms on how its done, whats needed and a rough cost. I for one have not looked into this as i have been led to believe it is some sort of black magic, with only those that know the secret handshake can manage.
:cheers2:
 
I am off to saw up some timber for box's,I will be interested to see how this thread develops.

I built 6 frame Langstroth Nucs out of 12mm ply last summer and they cost me about £10 each. Both overwintered well and now have a 2nd colony in each.

I have 10 due to be built in the coming 2 weeks as well. It isn't a hard task.
 
I for one have not looked into this as i have been led to believe it is some sort of black magic, with only those that know the secret handshake can manage.
:cheers2:

The bees do it all by themselves Veg. Simplist way is to go through each of your colonies everyweek. As soon as you find a frame with a queen cell on it (preferably still open as closed ones often initiate swarming) move it along with a frame or two of brood and stores to a nuc box. Make sure there is no more than 2 cells on the frame. When the queen hatches she will then take over the hive. Providing she goes off on a mating flight and gets laid, she will lay! They really have got it down to a simple art...........

There is an argument that doing it from a swarm cell will produce a swarmy bee. But if you give them plenty of room and lots of supers it won't be a major problem for you next year.

It's better to produce a saleable nuc, than have them fly away in a swarm anyway.

As much as I have enjoyed this thread, I have a biology exam on Thursday and I need to revise for it. I will see you all in about a week.

Mission
Jay (to my friends)
J M Clegg
Mr Clegg (to those with whoms pallet I do not meet)
 
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I am more than happy to write it out for you Veg and sorry to say I do not go with what Mission is saying as that is intensifying swarminess which is something that terrifies newbies for the very simple reason every method of swarm control starts with first catch your hare!

PH
 
how about someone who knows how, doing a write up in simple terms on how its done, whats needed and a rough cost.

When you find queen cells in a colony you rate highly, do an artifical swarm and put the old box on top of the new brood body and supers. You find the queen and put her down below with the flying bees and the younger bees in the supers.

Mission, I wouldn't use any old queen cell. For example I would not use a QC from a colony which has chalk brood or which is too feisty.

Wait a few days until the queen cells in the top box are sealed but make sure of your timing as an early hatcher will swarm or kill the others.

Line up a few nuc boxes and place 2 frames of honey in each. I remove frames of honey from my colonies in April to make room for the queen to lay. If you have a frame with pollen, put that in as well. Go through your top box and any frame with a queen cell gets placed in a nuc with the adhering bees.

Shake in a few more bees or set in another frame with adhering bees which has no queen cell on it.

If there is more than one queen cell you can destroy the smaller ones or attempt to remove them carefully with a sharp blade and put them in mini nucs.

In less than a week the queen cell should hatch.

Check 2 weeks later for any sign of eggs.

Don't tinker or open the nucs earlier than this.

Any flying bees will find there way back to the original colony.

That's it really if you just need a few extra queens.

This works better if you have several colonies as you can select for gentleness, honey production, calmness on the comb etc.
 
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Lastly. Co-operation. Sorry but I chuckled at this. Do you think honestly this has never been tried before? Course it has and died over and over. It may work this time and I am up for being a part of it but.........

If you're going to do it, do it properly. Gentleman's agreements and "hey it'll save time if I just put it rhough my company's books" never work out.

info on co-operatives, for example, would seem to be a place to start looking if it gets past a point of being an interesting discussion on an internet forum.
 

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