Swarm Box design

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kermit

New Bee
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Oban, Argyll
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First - YES I have looked at Dave Cushman's site.

I want to build a swarm box. I have built all my own hives and nucs, so this shouldn't be a problem. And, yes, I have sufficient tools.

My question is do you have a better design/idea than those on DC's site for a swarm box? Requirements are that it is light enough and not too big. I will need to be able to hold it in one hand whilst balancing on a ladder, in a beesuit and also sawing/shaking a branch and doing all the other things we go through to get a swarm...

Thanks
 
I think if you can hit the circa 40 litres size that is a good start.
After that some old frames to make it smell nice and some lemon grass oil if you have any.
If you search on the forums for bait hives there are loads of other ideas and comments.
 
Not looked, but a bag with a frame to enable it to be opened wide or closed is adequate and about as light as you can get.

Forget sawing branches while holding a box and standing on a ladder waiting for a swarm to drop in. Too dangerous. There are better ways. You only need the queen in order to get the rest!

Never yet seen a swarm anywhere near 40 litres, dn!:icon_204-2:
 
Never yet seen a swarm anywhere near 40 litres, dn!:icon_204-2:

that would be a belter right enough!!
No I think the capacity of new home they look for is generally reckoned to be around 40 litres. If you can make something a similar shape to the brood box of the colonies you own I think that is a good idea because you can put some old frames in easily! Also make it easy to open up!
Some tips from a pdf I have (can't remember the source)
1. Height - about 15 ft from the ground
2. Well shaded but highly visible
3. Entrance area about 1 ½ to 2 square inches
4. Entrance position – near the floor
5. Cavity volume about 40 litres
6. The odour of beeswax is attractive
 
I have a number of travel boxes made from ply, 9mm bottom and ends, 6mm sides for the box, 9mm sides and 6mm top for the roof. The front has a entrance disc and the back and roof have vents which can take a 1lb jar to feed/water the bees. The design is such that the roof is 460x230 so that two can be on a stand and a standard roof cover them both.

These are light and easy to carry.

Mike.
 
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I have a number of travel boxes made from ply, 9mm bottom and ends, 6mm sides for the box, 9mm sides and 6mm top for the roof. The front has a entrance disc and the back and roof have vents which can take a 1lb jar to feed/water the bees. The design is such that the roof is 460x230 so that two can be on a stand and a standard roof cover them both.

These are light and easy to carry.

Mike.

home made or bought? if made, have you got plans for these?
 
when I started, I made wooden swarm boxes, but having collected swarms in the same scenario as you described, I quickly ordered in some poly 6 frame boxes, light as anything, can easily be held in one hand, whilst on a ladder in a bee suit
 
home made or bought? if made, have you got plans for these?

Home made, it's a very simple design. My one is made to suit Rose frames but all you need it to make it deeper for others to fit. Things to remember; the top bee space, so the lid does not crunch too many bees, and a good sized entrance hole, they like to flood in.

I line mine with a plastic bag and use them to carry honey frames in when harvesting, a lot easier on the back and more bee proof than a full box.

Mike.
 
My question is do you have a better design/idea than those on DC's site for a swarm box? Requirements are that it is light enough and not too big.

For swarms within easy reach, simply make-up a box the same shape as a swing-top refuse bin, from 3-ply with one-inch square battens at the corners to take glue and nails. On one side fix a long handle, the same sort of shape as used for disabled toilets/ bathrooms etc. That is about as light (for carrying) as it gets.
You then need to make-up a lid which can be both closed (for transport) and 'almost closed' (to allow the stragglers entry).

You'll also need to add meshed ventilation holes top and bottom (say). Best to make these closable with covers which rotate across - like beevac vacuum regulators - closed to make the box dark during collection, and open during transport.

Paint the box white, as it might be sitting in the sun for an hour or two whilst waiting for the scouts to return. If possible, tilt the box when shaking the bees into it, as this lessens the impact, and reduces the size of 'the cloud' which invariably results from shaking.


I will need to be able to hold it in one hand whilst balancing on a ladder, in a beesuit and also sawing/shaking a branch and doing all the other things we go through to get a swarm...

There's a much easier way ...

For swarms at height, the easiest method is to forget all about ladders and saws etc, and take a tip from way back in the 1920's. If you already know or have been told that the swarm is located at height (something to be asked of the person reporting the swarm) then take with you a NUC box containing some brood frames and nurse bees.

Then, insert a brood comb (sans bees) into a box such as this:

34qvhxg.jpg


and either by the use of a pole, or a cord flung over a branch by courtesy of a fishing rod, hoist the box to within 6 feet or less of the swarm. The swarm will quickly relocate into the box which can then be lowered to the ground.

Clearly the box as shown will need to be suitably modified for transport, with covers, ventilation and so forth.

Whatever you decide to make - don't forget to post a pic :)

LJ
 
I use a NUC with a mesh floor. The roof has four vent holes in it and the crown board has two long slotted vents (covered in mesh), this allows for plenty of ventilation while in transit. The roof has clamps to lock it in place so there is no need for straps to secure.

This doesn't actually catch the swarm, unless they go in of their own accord, but I like LJ's idea - wonder if I can adapt something, because even with a NUC, swarms at height are not easy.
 

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