swapping position of supers

[acabee]

Hi, newbie here with newbie type question...(and newbie logic probably)

I have two supers on my hive - the first above the QE was getting full (but not yet capped). The second was being drawn out. I swapped their positions - on the basis it would be easier for the bees to complete drawing and start filling the second super during all this fine weather and lots of forage.

I now have my doubts that this was a good idea. Have I just made it more difficult / longer for the bees to finally cap the first super which is now at the top of the hive?

acabee

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

I wouldn't worry about it - some people always put the new super immediately above the QE and some just put the next one on the very top - the bees will sort it out for themselves

 

[acabee]

Many thanks. Am reassured that bees know more about it then I do! It seems they are keeping me more than I am 'keeping' them.

 

[Poly Hive]

I agree, no issues there at all.

PH

 

[sputnam]

Makes no real difference.

 

[Finman]

I wouldn't worry about it - some people always put the new super immediately above the QE and some just put the next one on the very top - the bees will sort it out for themselves

What ever guy do, the right way is to give empty box allways between honey and brood.

Bees natural tendency is fill rippen honey from up to down. There is no reason to mix that order. Then you take frames and extract them.

When you get one capped box honey, you should have 2 other box /equal store space for nectar that they can dry up it.

Of course you may do what ever, but bees use then brood combs to rippen the nectar or they slow down nectar foraging.

There is no reason to swap supers. If bees not occupye super, they have too much room in the hive.

 

[Finman]

I have two supers on my hive - the first above the QE was getting full (but not yet capped). The second was being drawn out. I swapped their positions -e

You did very right

 

[acabee]

Thanks Finman and others for your views. Much appreciated.
acabee

 

[Andy Duff]

New super next to brood box and hence closest to main volume of bees and controlled climate, less effort for the ladies in what has been a bad weather year with variable amounts of nectar coming in

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Mine have been doing fine with the new super just being placed on top (super number 4 today!)

 

[Finman]

Mine have been doing fine with the new super just being placed on top (super number 4 today!)

I wonder how you hive do fine in uch weather like you have had half year.

If your supers are empty, it is same ib what order the boxe have.


I have met those lazy beekeepers, who oonly throw a boxe over the pile.
That is not at least honey prduction.

 

[Finman]

.

Listen guys

Very important thing in beekeeping is swarming preventing. It is bees natural instinct to reproduction. When bees feel that they have full stores honey above the brood, they think tjhat now it is the time.

In order pollen - brood- nectar - rippen honey is important that bees feel too hjave plenty of room. They have work to do and things are not ready to swarm.

If you put capped honey frames over the brood (and what is the idea in that)
bees feel that
- hive is stucked ... quick swarming
- they dry up nectar in brood area ... adds swarming
- they slow down foraging and cluster on outer wall. .... speeds swarming
- to keep on busy foraging motivation

But if you have not interest to do right things in couple of hives. it is same what you do. That bees are alive and they do fine, is not a measure of good beekeeping.

Good beekeeping is then when you get 100 kg honey from the hive. Then I say that the hive does well.

 

[Finman]

.
Listen II guys


When you have one or two brood boxes, you should have in yield period 4-6 supers over the brood.

You use low supers yhat they are faster ready to extract and again bees have more room.

Remember the rule: if one box capped - then 2 boxes for nectar rippening.

Then you have order

- brood
- foundations
- nectar stores
- rippening honey
-capped honey --- harvest

If you just put on the pile the super what you have

- capped
- capped-
-capped-
- capped

Why don't you harvest the honey. How do you know do bees need more combs to store nectar?

And what idea is in that
- brood
- capped
- capped
- harveted
- harvested


(sory. I speak about honey production. Not keeping bees alive)

 

[jenkinsbrynmair]

Wasn't there another thread on dogmatic beekeepers on here?

 

[Finman]

Wasn't there another thread on dogmatic beekeepers on here?

It is good that there are at least somewhere. When catch and release -guys give advices to each other,
it will be the Collapse of British Honey Production. CBHP
Bees are not vanishing but honey is vanishing.


.

 

[nikca]

I am only a 2nd year beek (let's not get into if this is long enough to call myself a beek), BUT, I would worry with 4 supers that the top super may be too far away from the brood area for the Queen pheromone to permeate, and you might encourage a laying worker?

I see there is a thread with a beek with exactly this issue (drone cells at this time of year in the upper super).

What say you guys?

Nik

 

[Finman]

I am only a 2nd year beek (let's not get into if this is long enough to call myself a beek), BUT, I would worry with 4 supers that the top super may be too far away from the brood area for the Queen pheromone to permeate, and you might encourage a laying worker?

I see there is a thread with a beek with exactly this issue (drone cells at this time of year in the upper super).

What say you guys?

Nik

i have nursed 50 years and my biggest hives have 8 boxes.

Keep on worrying!

i remember when I started. I worried about weather. But it did not become any better.

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