Super dummy boards

[REDWOOD]

Last year I had brace comb built in the end of my supers, I believe I have two options either use 12 frames or use a dummy board. I was just interested to know what others do.

 

[Black Comb]

Try Spacing the frames out a bit more. Once they start to fill the frames don't need to touch each other.,

 

[MuswellMetro]

Last year I had brace comb built in the end of my supers, I believe I have two options either use 12 frames or use a dummy board. I was just interested to know what others do.

ensure the two outer frames are tight up to side walls so only a beespace then manually move a few of the inner frames wider...the bees extend the comb depth on the moved frames, remember you can use wide spaces at 8, 9 or 10 frames so a little wider spacing than hoffmans SN4 can be accommodated

 

[For want of a better word]

When I had bees that liked to build brace comb at the drop of a hat, I used the castellated super runners, and changed to bottom space.

 

[itma]

Last year I had brace comb built in the end of my supers, I believe I have two options either use 12 frames or use a dummy board. I was just interested to know what others do.

As per the divergence of replies, the answer is going to depend pretty much entirely on what type of frames (and spacers) you are using in your supers.

If you are using self-spacing frames (hoffman or manley, using their own spacing) I think a dummy board is indeed the best option. Spreading the spacing fractionally wider is simply inviting heavy prop deposits between the frames.
/And if you can get more than 10 Manleys in a Nat super, there's something odd going on!



However, something that is very important is to make sure that the end wall of the box (and any dummy board) is completely clean of little wax attachments; carefully clean off all the remains of earlier brace comb efforts.
If there are any such bits of wax left there, the bees will happily prioritise rejoining them to the nearest bit of comb!