Soft coloured wax polish for waxing pine

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All ingerdients are weighed and sorry I only do Imperial

4oz beeswax
1oz Carnauaba
14 - 16oz Turps
12" squeeze of artists oil pigment Burnt Umber

Course you don't have to use the stain.

Melt the beeswax, carnauaba and stain carefully, add the turps. You may have to re-heat as the turps will cool the mix enough to 'curdle' it. Cool, stir occasionally, store in an airtight container, if it's too soft leave the lid off for a bit of turps evaporation, if it's too stiff re melt and add more turps.

I'm not sure Burnt Umber was quite the best brown, there is another brown, can't remember the name. I just bought this for experiment as using off the shelf stains was a waste of time as they are diluted ready for use. The Burnt Umber is fine for me, it's more of a browny brown rather than a reddy brown which tends to be the popular wax colours. I suppose if I got clever I could add red too........

Tha carnauaba adds a greater shine and can be ommitted, add an extra oz of beeswax instead.

Frisbee
 
Doesn't the carnuba wax add a harder polish to the furniture?

All ingerdients are weighed and sorry I only do Imperial

4oz beeswax
1oz Carnauaba
14 - 16oz Turps
12" squeeze of artists oil pigment Burnt Umber

Course you don't have to use the stain.

Melt the beeswax, carnauaba and stain carefully, add the turps. You may have to re-heat as the turps will cool the mix enough to 'curdle' it. Cool, stir occasionally, store in an airtight container, if it's too soft leave the lid off for a bit of turps evaporation, if it's too stiff re melt and add more turps.

I'm not sure Burnt Umber was quite the best brown, there is another brown, can't remember the name. I just bought this for experiment as using off the shelf stains was a waste of time as they are diluted ready for use. The Burnt Umber is fine for me, it's more of a browny brown rather than a reddy brown which tends to be the popular wax colours. I suppose if I got clever I could add red too........

Tha carnauaba adds a greater shine and can be ommitted, add an extra oz of beeswax instead.

Frisbee
 
Don't leave it in plastic containers for any length of time as the turps can eat its way through, you go to lift the container up and the bottom drops off!! Experienced it!!
 
The whole point of adding carnuba is to give the polish a non tacky finish.

The polish is usually sold in tins.

PH
 
I just made this for my own use as commercial stained wax for pine is so expensive and contains the awful toluene. It smells lovely and is at the moment in a plastic container, but I'm not expecting it to be around for long enough to remove the bottom of the pot.

The colouring of it was an experiment. I've tried as I said earlier using wood stains, or rather wood dyes as they are the spirit based ones, but they hardly coloured it at all and was a waste of time. It was a brainwave really that came up with the idea of using artists oil pigment.

For waxing untreated pine....or any untreated wood really, the wax has to be soft to penetrate, it's not like polishing finished wooden furniture. Different product and I think what I have made is as close to something like Briwax as you're going to get.

Frisbee
 
Read the last paragraph! The Caranuaba can be left out, the word 'soft' in the title describes the consistency of the finished wax polish not the finish on the wood :)

Frisbee

I did, Frisbee. I meant that in addition to shine it offers more protection with a harder finish. But I suppose it makes sense it would also make for a softer paste.
 
For waxing untreated pine....or any untreated wood really, the wax has to be soft to penetrate, it's not like polishing finished wooden furniture. Different product and I think what I have made is as close to something like Briwax as you're going to get.

Frisbee

Yep, got you. And the cooling is a good idea, too.
 
That should have been COLOURING. Damned autocorrect.

:rolleyes: I did wonder what exactly you meant, but figured you knew what you were talking about even if no-one else did ;)

I've been using this all weekend on my stripped pine (done a few years ago and waxed at the time) and I've decided I love the colour.

Frisbee
 
All ingerdients are weighed and sorry I only do Imperial

4oz beeswax
1oz Carnauaba
14 - 16oz Turps
12" squeeze of artists oil pigment Burnt Umber

Course you don't have to use the stain.

Melt the beeswax, carnauaba and stain carefully, add the turps. You may have to re-heat as the turps will cool the mix enough to 'curdle' it. Cool, stir occasionally, store in an airtight container, if it's too soft leave the lid off for a bit of turps evaporation, if it's too stiff re melt and add more turps.

I'm not sure Burnt Umber was quite the best brown, there is another brown, can't remember the name. I just bought this for experiment as using off the shelf stains was a waste of time as they are diluted ready for use. The Burnt Umber is fine for me, it's more of a browny brown rather than a reddy brown which tends to be the popular wax colours. I suppose if I got clever I could add red too........

Tha carnauaba adds a greater shine and can be ommitted, add an extra oz of beeswax instead.

Frisbee

Sorry, but doesnt this mean 12 inch length of burnt umber????? Seems a bit/lot excessive! Ok, it doesnt mean that, can you please put it in terms I can underdtand:.)
 
Just in case anyone's still interested in this topic, burnt sienna would be a much friendlier, warmer brown than burnt umber.
 
Just in case anyone's still interested in this topic, burnt sienna would be a much friendlier, warmer brown than burnt umber.

I knew there was another artist pigment brown, but couldn't remember the name. However Burnt Umber worked well for me. I did plan on making more and selling it, but that idea seems to have gone astray!

Frisbee
 

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