Problem with Miller Feeder

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VixyB

New Bee
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
87
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Location
Newbury
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
3
Hi,

I put a Miller Feeder on my hive yesterday. It has the space in the middle and the food then goes on either side. I have an Apiguard tray in top of the bridge frames, then an Eke, the Miller Feeder and then the crown board.

I needed to collect something from where I keep them and noticed that lots of bees were trying to get out if the ventilation holes. I lifted the lid off and about 50 bees were drowned in the syrup.

I managed to get the feeder off (with great difficulty) and have put a smaller feeder on top of the crown board that I have used before.

Please can someone tell me what I might have done wrong? I would prefer to use a larger feeder if I can.

Thanks.
 
I use an Ashford feeder which is similar.

I solved that problem by putting 2 thin green wooden plant stakes in the syrup to stop them drowning. As long as they can reach their proboscis down the side to the syrup, they will be ok.

Dusty
 
It is the bigger area I am having a problem with them drowning. The small area they are meant to feed from, seems fine. The area that fills the smaller part is the bit that is causing the problem.
 
pop in some dried grass or something in the reservoirs on top of the syrup, that way if the bees go in they can climb up onto it and wait until the syrup is finished and get out again.
 
Perspex or gauze

I have a small piece of Perspex at the top of the feed area which physically stops the bees from reaching (and drowning) in the reservoir. I have also seen mesh being used for the same purpose

Are you feeding and treating with Apiguard? The instructions suggest avoiding feeding whilst treating as the bees will attend to the free food first and may ignore the treatment gel
 
It is the bigger area I am having a problem with them drowning. The small area they are meant to feed from, seems fine. The area that fills the smaller part is the bit that is causing the problem.

How are they getting in to the bigger area ? ...I thought that a Miller feeder only allowed them to come up through the slot in the middle and go down the narrow slots either side to feed ... they should not be getting into the bigger areas ..indeed, they should not even be able to get out of the ventilation holes at the top of the hive... there's something not right about your set up ...
 
There is indeed!! Someone kindly sent me a message explaining that I have missed the cover off. I thought I could use the crown board. I won't make that mistake again!!
 
How are they getting in to the bigger area ? they should not even be able to get out of the ventilation holes at the top of the hive... there's something not right about your set up ...

I thought I could use the crown board. I won't make that mistake again!!

Why have you got holes in your crown board?
 
Why have you got holes in your crown board?

It comes with holes so that porter bee escapes can be inserted. It us what was supplied when I bought the hive.

Should I be using a different crown board?
 
Hi VixyB

Well, there are at least four sorts of 'crown boards'.

Most suppliers sell a generic board, with two elongated holes, which are multi-purpose.

A true crown board is without holes, just a board with a rim. For that, I think the best is polycarbonate - though they do get clarted up with comb and need cleaning, getting scratched eventually. People use a generic board with either porters or pieces of tile over the holes - but this isn't draft-proof.

Clearer boards are for getting bees out of supers, for example, with a one-way valve. People start off using a generic board (as above) with Porter bee escapes in both holes. Most suppliers send them automatically. However, I've decided these are terrible - they get gummed up or the springs get loose and bees find ways of getting back. I've replaced them with rhombus bee escapes, which need one hole in the centre of the board.

Feeder boards are for the smaller feeders, like English or round feeders, which go over the centre hole - with the second hole being filled with a porter bee escape or a bit of tile.

Seriously, I went to B&Q, bought a 6' x 8' board of about 8mm, got them to cut them into squares (?460mm) then framed them with edging of strip wood of about 6mm. I then adapted them to whatever job I need them for - including upper entrances when doing a Demaree split.



Enjoy!

Dusty
 
It comes with holes so that porter bee escapes can be inserted. It us what was supplied when I bought the hive.

Should I be using a different crown board?

No - you can cover the holes if necessary. I use small panes of glass but anything will do. The cover will get stuck down with propolis of course but that isn't a problem, any more than propolising anything else.

Flying bees get into the syrup if the cover is off. I use an uncapping fork to shift them onto the landing board so they can walk in, but quite rare. Some bees go swimming in the filled watering cans in the garden but they seem to be good at the breaststroke.
 
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