OSR - to move or not to move?

[Jimmys Mum]

I have just realised that I have 2 large fields of OSR coming up about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from my Apiary.

I've never moved my hives before so apologies if this is a dim question but ...... Is it worth approaching the farmer to try and get some of my stronger hives moved right up onto the edge of the field in the spring (there is a farm track along the edge) or is 1/2 to 3/4 mile already plenty close enough? I know bees will easily forage that distance but will my potential harvest be significantly larger if the girls have it right on their doorstep!?

(And yes, I would like an OSR crop to make some soft set honey with. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea though.)

Thanks.
JM

 

[victor meldrew]

The distances involved don't warrant moving your hives .
A stroll in the park !
Vm


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[Swarm]

The with distance involved it wouldn't be worth the hassle.

 

[Jimmys Mum]

Thanks guys. Stroll in the park it is then!

 

[The Drone Ranger]

http://www.fwi.co.uk/articles/03/05/2013/138883/neonicotinoids-ban-to-hit-osr-establishment.htm

If the OSR was sown before Dec 1st then it will be treated seed
If after then goodness knows what we can expect for the bees

 

[Finman]

http://www.fwi.co.uk/articles/03/05/2013/138883/neonicotinoids-ban-to-hit-osr-establishment.htm

If the OSR was sown before Dec 1st then it will be treated seed
If after then goodness knows what we can expect for the bees

As far as I know, autumn sown seeds need not to be treated, because bugs do not eate them in autumn. But who sows seeds in December?

 

[iand]

http://www.fwi.co.uk/articles/03/05/2013/138883/neonicotinoids-ban-to-hit-osr-establishment.htm

If the OSR was sown before Dec 1st then it will be treated seed
If after then goodness knows what we can expect for the bees

Winter osr is ideally drilled in September, if drilled a lot later or in poor conditions like last year you will see a poorer establishment. That is when you will hear of farmers changing their plans and drilling spring sown osr or another break crop.
On the seed treatments these locally are to deal with flea beetle at the seedling stage. In the future if they are a problem, then spraying may well be required, but at the seedling stage there are no flowers to attract bees.

 

[iand]

I have just realised that I have 2 large fields of OSR coming up about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile from my Apiary.

I've never moved my hives before so apologies if this is a dim question but ...... Is it worth approaching the farmer to try and get some of my stronger hives moved right up onto the edge of the field in the spring (there is a farm track along the edge) or is 1/2 to 3/4 mile already plenty close enough? I know bees will easily forage that distance but will my potential harvest be significantly larger if the girls have it right on their doorstep!?

(And yes, I would like an OSR crop to make some soft set honey with. I know it's not everyone's cup of tea though.)

Thanks.
JM

Last year I moved some nucs from another apiary into the Osr field behind a big hedge and sheltered from the cold easterley winds. They caught up and did better than those that had to travel from the main site on the farm a couple of fields away. So just be aware of your local conditions.
Normally I wouldn't have bothered moving but it makes you wonder.

 

[Davelin]

Don't forget that the field is too close for you to move your hives straight there.
You would need another site 3 miles away to move them to first.

PS. You can make soft set from virtually any crop, does not need to be a naturally quick setting like OSR.

 

[Amari]

Don't forget that the field is too close for you to move your hives straight there.
You would need another site 3 miles away to move them to first.

PS. You can make soft set from virtually any crop, does not need to be a naturally quick setting like OSR.

…but OK if you move the hives in winter when bees unlikely to fly and their location memory dimmed.
I too have OSR 800m away and wonder how long it takes a bee to do the return trip. The energy expended will be burning off some of the nectar gathered, also possibly shortening the bee's life through overwork

 

[Finman]

.
More important than distance to rape field is, do you have nearby miscellaneous other flowers like gardens.

To me the most important thing is that in that time of year hives have good winter shelter.
At same time when rape blooms, we have nature full of flowers: dandelions. appletrees, orchards,

Just now I have autumn rape field 30 hectares nearby, (4 km) but a large field is very windy and other flowers are far way. I think that it is not my Place.

But I have calm rape fields too. But it depends what other flowers the site has.

 

[Jimmys Mum]

Yes, we are very lucky and have many large village gardens on our doorstep and a small orchard too. I might just sit tight and see what happens this year.... Or perhaps as suggested I could just move a couple of hives and see what happens. The OSR seems to be there every second or third year. It's going to be a learning process I can tell!

My main thought was that it's only my second full season and despite having 6 colonies at the moment, I only have 4 drawn supers. I wondered if being 'on-site' I might get some more supers drawn out more quickly.

 

[beeno]

Hi Jimmys Mum,
Not worth it IMHO on any level. Too much pain and little gain. Apart from that your bees tend to keep you very busy and I for one would hate to miss out on your writings! I thought to get good soft set honey (no expert) one needs slow setting honey i.e. small crystals not OCR?

 

[alanf]

Yes, we are very lucky and have many large village gardens on our doorstep and a small orchard too. I might just sit tight and see what happens this year.... Or perhaps as suggested I could just move a couple of hives and see what happens. The OSR seems to be there every second or third year. It's going to be a learning process I can tell!

My main thought was that it's only my second full season and despite having 6 colonies at the moment, I only have 4 drawn supers. I wondered if being 'on-site' I might get some more supers drawn out more quickly.

The tricky bit is you have to think a few moves ahead. Where do they go after the OSR? You have heavy boxes with lots of active bees that will need another site 3 or more miles away for a couple of weeks before you can bring them "home". If OSR is productive next year, they will find it and draw comb when they need it. Use it as a learning experience in handling OSR and get any honey extracted as soon as the flowering stops.

 

[Jimmys Mum]

The tricky bit is you have to think a few moves ahead. Where do they go after the OSR? You have heavy boxes with lots of active bees that will need another site 3 or more miles away for a couple of weeks before you can bring them "home". If OSR is productive next year, they will find it and draw comb when they need it. Use it as a learning experience in handling OSR and get any honey extracted as soon as the flowering stops.

Hi Alan,

Yep, I confess, I'd actually given zero thought to what happens after if I did move any colonies up the lane! Doh! Good advice, thanks. Maybe I should learn to walk with OSR first before attempting to run with it, and having it half a mile or so away from the apiary will hopefully give me the opportunity to do just that!

Feeling the love on the forum this morning ..... thanks for all the really helpful advice everyone!

JM

 

[Finman]

.
If hives are small and you do not have extra combs, the rape flow may be too heavy to hives,

Brood combs are easily stucked and you will get less brood. That is biggest problem in rape field, and the results you may see later in middsummer.

When you MUST give next spring foundations, put them under brood box and bees will draw them when they are able to do it. Don't "encourage" them in drawing. They really know what they do.

That is the biggest mistakes what beekeepers can do that they try to be wiser bees than bees itself

.

 

[Finman]

and having it half a mile or so away from the apiary will hopefully give me the opportunity to do just that!

JM

Bees can fly that distance.

.

 

[Jimmys Mum]

When you MUST give next spring foundations, put them under brood box and bees will draw them when they are able to do it. Don't "encourage" them in drawing. They really know what they do.

Thank you Finman, what you say really does make sense, but can you clarify just the bit above please? Why under the brood box in the Spring? Is this to keep the rising heat contained in the brood box to allow for optimal broodnest expansion in the Spring and that they will still draw foundation in a super underneath if they need more room?

Thanks JM

 

[Davelin]

Hi Jimmys Mum,
Not worth it IMHO on any level. Too much pain and little gain. Apart from that your bees tend to keep you very busy and I for one would hate to miss out on your writings! I thought to get good soft set honey (no expert) one needs slow setting honey i.e. small crystals not OCR?

The slower the set the bigger the crystals.
The secret to soft set is to seed with some of the right texture and stir for a few days while it starts to set. Then jar at the critical moment.

I wouldn't worry too much about undrawn supers, if there is a flow they can draw in no time. May help to alternate drawn, undrawn in the super rather than a whole super of undrawn

 

[mbc]

I think the op has had some good advice already in the thread and I dont wish to contradict any of it, but make a general point or two about osr and distance from the bees.
Osr seems to yield quite well in what we might think are rubbish conditions, once it gets going it will continue uninterrupted ( for a while) even if the weather deteriorates. Bees placed right on top of osr can often be seen working a heavy flow in rain when those a couple of hundred yards away may stay at home if the weather isnt encouraging enough to send out the scouts, this can have a dramatic effect on relative crops depending on the season.