Newbie in Warwickshire needs advice

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Nigel Woolley

New Bee
Joined
May 2, 2024
Messages
5
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Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
1
Hi. I did a course last year, joined the WBKA and had my first hive last July.

Made a few errors, but they seem to have balanced out, and I have a strong hive post winter.

I inspected today for the first time this year. Took off the super and saw the plastic queen excluder had a large bulge in the middle. I took it off, and in the process ripped apart the cells that had been build above the brood.

4 or 5 large larvae were revealed. I'm pretty sure I have ripped apart a group of queen cells. Maybe for the best.

I have another hive and am thinking of doing a split.

Any comments or advice would be welcome. Thanks.
 
That area,is generally where they add drone comb. Just a tip, if you leave a super on over winter, remove the queen excluder, the cluster, including the queen, need unrestricted access to their stores.
 
As already said, likely to be drone larvae. Check for eggs on next inspection.
With regard to the split, are they strong enough. How many frames of brood?
 
Noted. They were very big larvae, but I bow to your experience & knowledge. Hive is rammed, so I'll still look at the idea of a split.

Pretty much all the frames have brood. Lots of capped, lots of larvae. I guess eggs, but I haven't got used to spotting them yet. I think I saw the queen. Quite a lot of honey already in the super.
 
Noted. They were very big larvae, but I bow to your experience & knowledge. Hive is rammed, so I'll still look at the idea of a split.
In your second year your hive will always look rammed. A good strong hive should be rammed, but it never does any harm to give them more space ( as long as it isn't winter) so maybe think of a second brood box. I hate the plastic queen excluders, try and afford the wire ones, they do distort (especially if left on over winter which is an easy mistake to make when starting out) they also ping the bees all over the shop when you are trying to remove them. I certainly go with the drone brood theory but a careful check on your next inspection for queen cells wouldn't go amiss. Do you have any experienced eyes to help you in a difficult second year?
Click onto my blog page on this site. There are a series of articles written for the BBKA that may help you realise we have all been in your position and point you in the right direction.
Good luck
 
Thanks all. Very helpful. I wont do anything hasty. A bit more research needed, I think.

Really great to have sound advice so readily available.
 
That area,is generally where they add drone comb. Just a tip, if you leave a super on over winter, remove the queen excluder, the cluster, including the queen, need unrestricted access to their stores.
And in the worst case scenario the workers will stay in cluster below the queen excluder with the queen and in a cold hive will not move up for the stores .. and starve ! Do you have any insulation on top of the crownboard under the roof ? Have you got the feeder holes open ? - if you have, cover them over ...
 
And in the worst case scenario the workers will stay in cluster below the queen excluder with the queen and in a cold hive will not move up for the stores .. and starve ! Do you have any insulation on top of the crownboard under the roof ? Have you got the feeder holes open ? - if you have, cover them over ...
I've had them insulated all winter. 50mm Celotex all around the hive and above the crown board. I've taken it all away now. They gorged on fondant all winter and survived a sustained attack by wasps. Rats trying to get in, as well. All very dramatic.
 
I've had them insulated all winter. 50mm Celotex all around the hive and above the crown board. I've taken it all away now. They gorged on fondant all winter and survived a sustained attack by wasps. Rats trying to get in, as well. All very dramatic.
The insulation will really have helped - in well insulated hives the colonies are much more active over winter and will be able to move to the stores, wherever they are. I'd keep the insulation above the crownboard as it does assist the colony to maintain their preferred temperature conditions without undue influence from the external ambient temperatures. Even on warm days the overnight temperatures can drop and that slab of celotex just slows down the heat loss - you don't remove your loft insulation in summer do you ?

Insulation really helps the colony, all the year round, not just in winter.
 
50mm Celotex all around the hive and above the crown board. I've taken it all away now
Keep it on all year, Nigel. Bees will be able to thermoregulate more effectively.

plastic queen excluder had a large bulge in the middle
Yes, get rid of it and buy a proper QX that will maintain beespace and make work smoother.

pretty sure I have ripped apart a group of queen cells. Maybe for the best.
Not for the best: if they are QCs then bees are in swarm mode, will build more and be gone. Make sure you that can recognise horizontal drone cells and vertical queen cells. Know how to carry out an AS.

thinking of doing a split
Good idea; better to reduce winter risk than go in with one.

have a strong hive post winter
How strong is the colony? How many frames of brood? Photos would help.
 
The insulation will really have helped - in well insulated hives the colonies are much more active over winter and will be able to move to the stores, wherever they are. I'd keep the insulation above the crownboard as it does assist the colony to maintain their preferred temperature conditions without undue influence from the external ambient temperatures. Even on warm days the overnight temperatures can drop and that slab of celotex just slows down the heat loss - you don't remove your loft insulation in summer do you ?

Insulation really helps the colony, all the year round, not just in winter.
Thanks. I've reinstalled the top insulation. Really appreciate all the advice.
 

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