Darlington type entrance reduction

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SixFooter

Drone Bee
Joined
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Location
Merseyside
Hive Type
National
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I have several colonies under attack from wasps and I was going to reduce the entrances. However I have some Dartington type floors where the bees go in through a horizontal opening, then up a 3 inch high vertical slot, do I reduce the length of the slot or the length of the horizontal opening? I don't see guard bees, so are they guarding above the slot?

It seems to me, I should reduce the slot length, but that's a lot more difficult than the other option.
 
Are the hives with the underfloor entrances having wasp problems?
I was told (I'm prepared to be shot down in flames) that wasps don't like to climb into a hive. Also those entrances are easier to defend.

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never had an issue with wasps attacking my Dartington type entrances - in fact, they seem to actively avoid them - the guards will be lined up inside, either side of the slot.
Never felt the need to reduce the entrance, but if you really must, just stuff a lump of foam in the lobby to reduce the open space
 
Yes did mean Dartington auto correct maybe, but any way, I can see wasps going in and they don't come straight out again. I assumed they were climbing into the hive, but it could be they just hang out for a bit then try another way in.

If these DarTingTon floors stop wasps wtf aren't they encouraged more?
 
Either they're hanging around in the 'lobby' trying to evade the guards that prevent entrance to the hive ... or they've already overcome the guards and are running amok in the colony as it's too weak to defend itself. For weak colonies I just stuff a strip of 15x9mm strip wood in the entrance and leave a 1cm opening.
 
not everyone wants to make their own kit - and have you seen the price one bloke is charging for them on fleabay?

Ah OK. Dead easy to make though, but my reason for making them was because the standard national floors are a real weak point. Any mechanical trouble with a hive is nearly always the floor - well the roof as well. If the DIY jobs protect against mice, that's a benefit and if they protect against wasps that's an absolute bonus. I shall make some more in the Winter.
 
An ideal winter job really, and the same as anything if you make more than one the price per unit reduces to a worthwhile level

They work well and with >10 hives I refuse to pay £45 each when I can make them for less than £10 including mesh
 
Precisely. 45 quid is daylight robbery when you can make a far better, sturdier example for a fraction of the price.
 
Precisely. 45 quid is daylight robbery when you can make a far better, sturdier example for a fraction of the price.

What rate per hour do you value your time at? Make your own equipment by all means but don't begrudge a business selling a product at the best price the market will stand.
:judge:
 
Yes did mean Dartington auto correct maybe, but any way, I can see wasps going in and they don't come straight out again. I assumed they were climbing into the hive, but it could be they just hang out for a bit then try another way in.

If these DarTingTon floors stop wasps wtf aren't they encouraged more?

Pictures would help. There seems to be a couple of variants to underfloor entrances. One variant has a landing stage and an open back wall leading vertically to the entrance slot. The other has a landing stage and then a vertical tunnel into the hive.

Wasps have no problem landing on a landing stage and going vertical.
 
In our hives the entrance area is insulated. The distance from main cavity to the out side is between 75mm and 150mm. The vertical part of the entrance is usually occupied by large numbers of bees. The wasps may make a bid to enter but they come out fast or dead. at the moment . the few wasps are avoiding a close approach to hive I.e. 1 to 2m . In their natural abode bees have considerably more distance between the main cavity and the outside than 19mm and consequently may have developed behaviours including defensive ones that are based on that greater separation
 
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I think that mist attacks happen when bees have free access into the hive. Lower parts of frames are occupied. Wasp gets food there and alarm its colony to harvest good yield.

Why so...

- Too much space to such colony
- too much ventilation and bees have withdrawn from entrance after cold night to keep brood warm
- too cold hive
- a wasp can forage in very cold weather.

Wasps lear to get yield and they are continuous nuisance.
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..........................but they still don't like it

Agreed. It's a vast improvement to a standard side entrance. It's just that a tunnel under floor entrance is even better still. So if problems are encountered there's another simple modification that can be deployed to improve protection.
 
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I had a problem with 3 frame nuc. There was only 2 frames bees. Hundreds of wasps were hunting their stores.

Then I pick from another yard more bees. Bees made an living Wall in the entrance. That was the end of robbing.

Special entrances is only a nuisance.

I have Apidea hive too. When it has enough bees, no wasp or robbers can go in.

But now almost all wasps are away.

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What rate per hour do you value your time at? Make your own equipment by all means but don't begrudge a business selling a product at the best price the market will stand.
:judge:

I could calculate it in those terms but I prefer £6 for materials and an hour away from the missus - priceless :):)
 
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