The usual reason, I think, for unwanted tastes is fermentation temperature. I’ve never filtered my mains water and have made umpteen batches - mostly wine, but quite a lot of beers and ciders as well.
Whether wine or ale, I usually keep the fermentation temperature at around 18 Celsius. OK, it may rise on occasions to just above 20C but I try to avoid it. OK, it takes longer but I ferment for quality, not speed. The wine kits I buy are often over a £100, so I don’t want an inferior product! My wife will only drink the wine if it is at least as good as the bought-in item.
Kits have become far superior to those of a couple of decades ago. Trying to make wine or beer within a week - the target for many cheap kits - is simply folly.
It may work in ideal conditions but most fermentations conditions do not reach that level and only the cheaper kits advocate booze in only a few days. Drinkable - yes. Best quality - no. Better beers, closer to the target taste, are undoubtably better (overall) if made by the ‘all grain’ method unless the more expensive kits are selected.
Chlorine is an oxidising agent and camden tablets are reducing agents, so one will counteract the other. Heating water to near boiling point will remove both (but will leave sulphites/sulphates behind in the case of camden tablets). But yeast needs oxygen for cell multiplication, so boiled water needs aerating before fermentation.
Heating to near boiling point will also remove some hard water minerals, but only the temporary variety. Some use bottled water instead of tap water, but I honestly can’t see the benefits over most mains supplies - and it is a very expensive alternative!
Metabisulphite (whether the sodium or potassium salt) simply breaks down over time, releasing sulphur dioxide. Dampness accelerates the process.
Also, using the potassium salt avoids adding any salty taste to the ferment.
I always leave my ferments to finish completely and slowly (beers are not so important as the fermentation process can complete in later stages - but ‘bottle bombs’ should be avoided if extra carbonation is added). Ales get two weeks (minimum) fermentation, two weeks carbonation and at least two weeks conditioning. Wines get as long as it takes for fermentation and months for maturation, if not years, depending on the type of wine.
Anyone rushing making wines and beers is likely to finish with a less than optimal product. What many do not understand is that rapid fermentation produces extra heat, which in turn increases the fermentation rate due to increased temperature. A vicious circle resulting in a poorer product.
Unless one has a ‘brew-fridge’ it is better to ferment in cooler places than fermentation target temperature - and add warmth if necessary. That might mean not fermenting during the summer months....
RAB
