Apiguard aplication.

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Cellectronic

House Bee
Joined
Jun 30, 2012
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Location
Much Wenlock, Telford
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
5 in National,s .
Hello All
Having read the Apiguard FAQ my query was not answered.
Maybe some of you can answer my question.

It states on the pack to place the product in its tray on-top of the brood frames,
My question is can the Apiguard be placed above the crownboard near the feeder hole. Would the bees come through the hole and take the Apiguard ?
Thanks for any advice.
 
No, you are supposed to put it on the top of the brood frames … about a month or two ago.
 
The action of Apiguard is that the thymol vapours descend throughout the hive, this needs a warm temperature both for the evaporation to take place, and for the bees to be active. For Apiguard, the higher the ambient temperature the more effective it is, and it can be ineffective below 15 C.

If you put it above a crown board hole, the vapour won't flow around the frames as much as it's denser than air and sinks, the hole will constrain the places it can reach to the frame spaces directly below the hole. The gel will also be much cooler above a crown board, with the current weather that will be more likely to keep it below the effective temperature range.
 
The gel is also spread among the colony by the bees. Not much chance of the tray being emptied (read instructions carefully) unless positioned as per those instructions - inside the hive.
My advice is keep it simple and follow the instructions. Not sure why you wuld leave a gaping hole in the crownboard anyway.
 
as RAB - the bees don't like the apiguard and will try and move it out of the hive thus in doing so spreading it through the whole colony - by putting it above the crownboard notwithstanding all the other points you have done the job for them and put it 'outside' the hive
 
The api guard faqs suggest at external temperature band of 15 to 25C external temps use full dose
Above external temp 25, use half dose.

note this is for wood. given the internal temperature differences in poly to wood
this would suggest: (NOT TESTED)

5c to 15c use full dose
above 15c use 1/2 dose

if you have a PIR cover (Recticel, kingspan cover)
NEVER more than 1/2 dose (NOT TESTED)
 
The api guard faqs suggest at external temperature band of 15 to 25C external temps use full dose
Above external temp 25, use half dose.

note this is for wood. given the internal temperature differences in poly to wood
this would suggest: (NOT TESTED)

5c to 15c use full dose
above 15c use 1/2 dose

if you have a PIR cover (Recticel, kingspan cover)
NEVER more than 1/2 dose (NOT TESTED)

Which would suggest you could use it later than usual...like now? ....if needed.
 
Why is it over 15 degrees outside temps when bees keep temps in hive higher than that
 
because as it says in the FAQ,
(item 5)
http://www.vita-europe.com/wp-content/uploads/Apiguard.pdf

"The external temperature should be above 15°C (60°F), which means that the colony is active."

If the bees are clustering without moving in and out, the airflow is reduced because there's more of them being in the hive, and they also won't be transporting the gel around the hive.
 
Why is it over 15 degrees outside temps when bees keep temps in hive higher than that

it is the activity of the bees that spreads it through the hive and at 14c they start to cluster, and dont work the thymol paste

it has go nothing to do with the brood temperature which is 34c while the have brood (February to October/nov) that is not the temperture of the outer parts of the broodbox the bees are clustered and the outer temp of the cluster is not much above ambient air temperatrure (except in a poly or PIR)
 
because as it says in the FAQ,
(item 5)
http://www.vita-europe.com/wp-content/uploads/Apiguard.pdf

"The external temperature should be above 15°C (60°F), which means that the colony is active."

If the bees are clustering without moving in and out, the airflow is reduced because there's more of them being in the hive, and they also won't be transporting the gel around the hive.

it is the activity of the bees that spreads it through the hive and at 14c they start to cluster, and dont work the thymol paste

it has go nothing to do with the brood temperature which is 34c while the have brood (February to October/nov) that is not the temperture of the outer parts of the broodbox the bees are clustered and the outer temp of the cluster is not much above ambient air temperatrure (except in a poly or PIR)



;)
 
Got evidence of bees not clustering at -13C in a PIR hive... I wouldnt recommend opening it though to apply treatment... unlike the wooden hive, all of the bees would not only take a very dim view this action, all would be warmed up sufficient to express their displeasure, in their very special way.
 
The api guard faqs suggest at external temperature band of 15 to 25C external temps use full dose
Above external temp 25, use half dose.

note this is for wood. given the internal temperature differences in poly to wood
this would suggest: (NOT TESTED)

5c to 15c use full dose
above 15c use 1/2 dose

if you have a PIR cover (Recticel, kingspan cover)
NEVER more than 1/2 dose (NOT TESTED)

All colonies are equal but there's a 100%, same again, difference between poly and wood as hive material?!!
Top work.
 
Late Apiguard application

Have been using Apiguard up to end of October here the last few years.
Start treatment in Mid September and treat again 3 weeks later.
Using wooden hives the entrances are closed to a couple of inches, and I have solid floors.
Cover boards are removed, to allow a couple of inches above the frames.
It seems to be effective.
The pads are usually cleared and sometimes there is no trace of them...
Bees having chewed and removed them
I do nt feed until the Apiguard is off.....
I do follow up with Oxalic Acid in winter .
Nucs get a smaller dose depending on the number of frames in them.
 
All colonies are equal but there's a 100%, same again, difference between poly and wood as hive material?!!
Top work.

There is substantial measurable variation between poly hive makes. But as rule of thumb, poly has half the heat loss. My PIR hives, and tree nests at least halve it again.
But what ever you do, dont add top vents to poly.
There more info in the talks
lots more in the paper (7months now)
 
Last edited:
Some great feedback of you guys .
Many thanks , I know I am late to treat but better late than never.
Chipper are you saying you remove the crownboard completely ?
So that you just put the roof on the brood box with Apiguard on the frames ?
 
RTFM FAQ 2: " peel back the lid of the tray and place, gel side up on top of the brood frames. Make sure to leave enough space for the bees to get into the
tray (use a spacer [an eke] or, more preferably an empty super on top of the brood chamber). Close the hive."

That last sentence means put the cover board on, and then the roof.
If you leave the cover board off then you'll not only allow a gale to blow through the hive, you'll have an express highway for robbers to get in too.

Do you have an eke or spare super to place under the cover board?
 
Coverboard comes out .
Roof is directly above Brood Box usually leaving a couple of inches above Apiguard tray.
IF the roof has nt enough clearance then I use an eke or super.
Has to be Solid floor AND a small entrance (and no other holes for robbers to get in.)

This year I see a few of the stronger hives have put some comb under the roof but this does nt happen often with my hive size
 

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