Another shook swarm question

[canterbury_keeper]

I am thinking of performing a shook swarm on my remaining hive, primarily to start them fresh and mite free, but also because I've heard some opinions say that it gives them a boost at the begining of the year (although I'd be interested in hearing this opinion).

I've left them alone the last couple of weeks to enjoy the good weather, but will be going up on Saturday.

If I do this, is it best to use a new brood box and shake them on to the new frames or replace the frames in the orginal box one by one. Should I leave a frame of mostly uncapped brood to capture as many mites as possible?

Thanks

Marc

 

[Finman]

I am thinking of performing a shook swarm on my remaining hive, primarily to start them fresh and mite free, but also because I've heard some opinions say that it gives them a boost at the begining of the year (although I'd be interested in hearing this opinion).

That is worst you can do to your hives this time of year.

It is 300% sure, that you make shook swarm now, there is no boost , but you kill colony build up for long time. If some say, that shook swarm gives a boost to hive, he knows nothing about beekeeping.


Let the hive grow now. Take care that you enlarge the hive in proper time. Then give new foundations to be drawn.

Nex step is that you make swarming inspection every week, and then react at once if you see queen cells in the hive.

Follow hive's build up , hive more boxes and look, how bees will fill boxes with honey.

-

 

[dexter's shed]

I did think it was a crazy idea to do with no real reason

 

[Hivemaker.]

I am thinking of performing a shook swarm on my remaining hive, primarily to start them fresh and mite free, but also because I've heard some opinions say that it gives them a boost at the begining of the year (although I'd be interested in hearing this opinion).

I've left them alone the last couple of weeks to enjoy the good weather, but will be going up on Saturday.

If I do this, is it best to use a new brood box and shake them on to the new frames or replace the frames in the orginal box one by one. Should I leave a frame of mostly uncapped brood to capture as many mites as possible?

Thanks
Marc

It is certainly not giving them a boost regards bee numbers, more like reducing the number of bees by 25/35,000, plus the old bees dying off while waiting for over 22 days before any more young bees start to emerge, some suggest it also more stressful on the queen.

And there is no way they can be made mite free by doing this.

 

[Arfermo]

I am thinking of performing a shook swarm on my remaining hive, primarily to start them fresh and mite free, but also because I've heard some opinions say that it gives them a boost at the begining of the year (although I'd be interested in hearing this opinion).

I've left them alone the last couple of weeks to enjoy the good weather, but will be going up on Saturday.

If I do this, is it best to use a new brood box and shake them on to the new frames or replace the frames in the orginal box one by one. Should I leave a frame of mostly uncapped brood to capture as many mites as possible?

Thanks

Marc

Utterly pointless this time of the year - unless you can explain why in better detail?

 

[Nige.Coll]

It's a confusing world.
Some of the main advise givers on other fora say a shook swarm is a good thing at this time if varroa is a problem.
I can't see how myself.
Losing brood at this crucial time cannot be a good idea. Setting them back a month when they are trying to build up is crazy.
OA sublimation is black magic and OA kills brood however it is delivered are some other gems given out by people that should know better.
Some are using MAQS and being puzzled why the bees are dropping like flies, others have apiguard on as they are worried about the varroa and now have no brood.
It's a minefield out there as far as advice goes.

 

[Heather]

I would only consider a shook swarm for such reason if ..good weather, late March, poor comb ...combination.
Having been away (whale watching) I have missed the opportunity this year, but am now doing Baileys on 3 with v brown comb as I will not dump 5 frames brood.

 

[Erichalfbee]

Where did you go? I'd love to take husband for his 60. Went many years ago to watch humpbacks from RIBs in Newfoundland. Magic!

 

[Finman]

I would only consider a shook swarm for such reason if ..good weather, late March, poor comb ...combination.
.

None of these is a reason to destroy brood. ....good weather and you burn brood frames.... Magic is in air.

Poor comb? When summer comes, you give foundations to be drawn.



.

 

[wessexmario]

It beats me why anyone would need to treat for varroa at this time of year.

This should be when varroa counts are at an annual low. If you really need to treat for varroa now, then you missed the opportunity to treat the colony at the ideal time in the middle of winter when there was no brood.

Now that brood is building up for the spring flow, any of the various options available will be far from ideal, but still, if counts are high, better to treat and start the season with a low count, even if you do set the raising of brood back by a couple of weeks, mites can reproduce faster than bees, don't let them have a head start.

 

[Thymallus]

It beats me why anyone would need to treat for varroa at this time of year.
.

I think NigeColl was referring to someone who didn't (through lack of experience) treat properly for varroa last year and now has a serious problem with them.

What should they do to save their bees......With the added proviso (groan) that they now have a flow on and don't want to lose the honey.....

 

[Queen Brenda]

If varroa is the main problem and supers are on, would maqs strips not be appropriate?

 

[Finman]

If varroa is the main problem and supers are on, would maqs strips not be appropriate?

Main principle is that do not treat varroa during yield period.

It is better to reviele out, how big problem it is. You may see it when you draw drone brood out. Rolling in dust sugar tells too.

It there are white worker pupae on floor and wingles bees, contamination is serious.
Then it is better to make AS and follow the procedures what is said to treat swarm part and brood part.

 

[Thymallus]

IIRCC the person recorded 80% of drone brood being infected and a mite drop of close to 600 over 48 hours. No observed DWV. Observations were hive thriving and nectar coming in, but perhaps not accurate observations as new beekeeper.

 

[Heather]

Seems maqs can affect queen performance. I only do shook if minimal brood ( very early) and old comb needing replacement.

 

[Finman]

IIRCC the person recorded 80% of drone brood being infected and a mite drop of close to 600 over 48 hours. No observed DWV. Observations were hive thriving and nectar coming in, but perhaps not accurate observations as new beekeeper.

What is the meaning of that data? Whose hives are dieing?

With those mite numbers hive is near to death.

 

[Thymallus]

The original question was first posted on a different forum but seems to have migrated here. The meaning refers to the person who originally asked the question as to what to do. They reported 80% drones infected and afterwards the drop counts.
The question is what is the solution. I suggested Amitraz as one possible solution

 

[Finman]

.
It does not help Canteburry if you paint ultimate varroa cases in this chain.

My experince is that if I do not find mites from drone brood, contamination is normal. If I find mites in several drone pupae, mite load will be serious before autumn.

But it is better, that Canteburry confirm himself, what kind of mite load he has in hive before he starts to destroy his hive and compete with mite, which is worse killer.