Bee space - 8mm of nothing

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drstitson said:
the wide top bar gives 8mm between frames so no brace comb.
Click to expand...

Or to pedantically try and remove confusion, with the same 35mm hoffman spacing, the type 5 (wider) topbar gives an 8mm gap between topbars (one beespace), as compared to the ~14mm topbar gap (more than one beespace, less than 2) using the type 4 (narrower) topbars.
Which should mean less chance of brace comb around the topbars.


/ I have noted that the wide topbars don't have to be very bent before that 8mm gap becomes an unacceptably small 6mm ... hmmm.
 
So are DN5s, Hoffmans, the same as DN4s, just with a wider top bar, to theoretically, stop brace comb inbetween top bars?
 
the naked beekeeper said:
So are DN5s, Hoffmans, the same as DN4s, just with a wider top bar,
Click to expand...
Yes. (the 4's are hoffman too)
The plethora of types is achieved by shuffling different combinations of surprisingly few different bits. I'm increasingly viewing the piles of kindling as being just a set of specific spare parts. Thus I'll probably be using the (from first quality Manleys) best top bars on the next lot of 14x12 brood frames that I make up. Brood frames get handled much more than super frames, and accurate gaps can only help that.
... to theoretically, stop brace comb inbetween top bars?
Click to expand...
That and being stronger. which is why the same topbar spec is used on the 14x12s.
 
I use manley bottom bars in all my hoffman frames. The side bars i use are the same width as the manley bars when attached to the side bars
 
mpenn said:
I use manley bottom bars in all my hoffman frames. The side bars i use are the same width as the manley bars when attached to the side bars
Click to expand...

That looks like what Bob Smith would have been on about! :)
Now, don't keep us in suspense, where did the sidebars come from?
 
drstitson said:
At request of another member i'll summarise a little of the bob smith talk from saturday (wrt brood box at least).

1. make sure brood box is of correct dimensions with correct 8mm bee space at bottom (or top). On BBS the frames should be flush with top of box (and lug ends should be snug to outer walls - add packing fillets (eg coffee stirrers or lolly sticks) if necesssary. watch out for shrinkage during life of the box.

2. Use proper hoffman frames, not plastic ends or converters.

3. check the bottom part of the side bars is narrower by 4mm each side (some are 6mm!)

4. use wide top bars - which again give 8mm between frames

5. use wide (manley) type bottom bars to remove spare space at bottom of frame.

6. ensure frames are constructed square with properly fitted foundation

7. ensure frames are tight against each other in the hive and use a dummy board for ease of inspection.

8. make sure you have proper format QE ie flush on one side and 8mm on other, not the usual 50:50 compromise.

9. he has a set of wooden feeler gauges (two in fact - 1 large and 1 small) for checking bee space!!!!
Click to expand...




I'm getting 12 mm space right below my super frames yet everywhere I read and get told, bee space is 8mm! I'm wondering am I good to go to assemble them or take a few mm of my side boards
 
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