Hive Stand Plans?

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Is that 22mm ply ?

I was thinking of making some Langstroths but don't know if 22mm would be to heavy but then would 18mm be too thin for the rebate ?
 
Onge, It's 18mm cheap ply. Use fence paint or masonry paint to waterproof it.


Fris, I'd be delighted, .............. and hopefully, .. so will you. :blush5:
 
Onge, my box in the pic above is a 14x12 national. I've just checked the details of a Brit spec Langstroth and it is usual to construct them from 22mm (7/8") timber. 18mm ply is much cheaper (and lighter) than 22mm, and if you felt it worth it to maintain tight control of the bee space at the sides (ends?) of the frame, you could make up the thickness by adding a sheet of that sort of corrugated plastic stuff, which they make estates agents 'For Sale' signs from. Gluing or stapling it inside the box would be just fine, and its cheap and easy to keep clean.

It's getting a bit 'techie', but maybe this helps.
 
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Bless - you Admin, have you got a cold ? :)



Yeah, why couldn't I think of that ...... must have my mind elsewhere. :)
 
JCBrum thanks that sounds like a plan.

Wouldn't the corex on the edges get propolised all over the place ?

Have you tried this yourself or would i be the guinea pig.

Great idea though.
 
Wouldn't the corex on the edges get propolised all over the place ?

No, the edges would not be accessible to the bees, particularly since the top edge (which is the vulnerable one) would be covered by the frame runners, and the vertical edges would be covered by the sides of the box.

You only need corex on the two ends anyway, not on the sides.

The bottom edge is not usually vulnerable to propolis, but if you were concerned, your could seal it with a bead of glue or sealer, or even a strip of wood.

Generally, I don't think the corex would be any more subject to propolis than any other part of the interior, and of course it's easy to remove because it doesn't stick to smooth plastic as firmly as it does to wood.


Have you tried this yourself or would i be the guinea pig.

I have used corex with good success in my beehives.
 
Hello JC. Had a look at Pete's hives the other day. Just a quick question; do you use a bandsaw and a chisel to make those finger joints? I'm making some hives at the moment and getting it a bit wrong to start with - my prototypes. Thanks.
 
Hi MT, I use a router sometimes for box joints, otherwise a tenon saw and chisel. :)
 
higher than the standard 11" hive stand available

All I will advise is: make it robust and if fixed, and for several hives, don't build it too high - you can easily raise the working surface by adding extra bearers but reducing it is not quite so easy; also, old supers will raise a floor by a considerable amount, or make your own 'ekes'.
Hello Olli
 
Good to see you back Outlander - it's been a while since you last posted. Just catching up ? There's a few thousand threads, let alone posts, if you have not been dipping in. Still a lot of us bee addicts still hanging around here ...
Hi yes I dip in and out of the forum, it's been very busy few years, between work and family life but still keeping bees. Had some health problems just over two years ago and that added to the lockdown thought about giving bee keeping up but really getting back into the swing of it all and enjoying it again.
 

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