Impression of MB's polyhive a year in.

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Then we read that Erichalfbee removed some, so they maybe gobbled up as much as 50lbs. Still a lot, but a dreadful year (apart from in the Somerset Bahamas!)

I think more like hyperbole as Ericha already mentioned.


Research suggests it is.....29th March.

Yesterday
Was still dithering about supering my strongest hive.
The 3 frames of brood 6 days ago had turned into 7!
I know it's getting colder so I put on a poly super with all drawn frames, half wet.
 
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I have moved exclusively to 10 Poly Hives from Cedar, most of which are all MB and Swienty Langstroths with Jumbo brood boxes and really love the hives. All my bees are doing well and having had them for 5 years or so, I am now used to making the hives work best for me and my bees.

My best hive had three full supers giving me over 50Lbs of honey alone (I left one for the bees) in an awful year and the bees seem very content and healthy.

I try and ensue that no brood comb is older than 2 years to reduce any residual build up of disease and find that the extra insulation means they can build comb very rapidly quite early in the year.

The key is to use a thin layer of Vaseline on the mating surfaces between the different parts of the hive and also on the frame runners. This makes inspections much more easier as the bees dont propolise these areas.

Varnishing the inside of the hive is a good idea and makes later cleaning much easier. Milton is good for sterilising the inside of the hives and a good scrub with a strong soda solution soon removes any propolis and wax.

After 5 years, my older hives are still in extremely good condition and only need a little touch-up to repair some minor scratches. The hard plastic edges are brilliant at protecting the boxes from any ill effects from using hive tools on them.
 
The key is to use a thin layer of Vaseline on the mating surfaces between the different parts of the hive and also on the frame runners. This makes inspections much more easier as the bees dont propolise these areas.

Varnishing the inside of the hive is a good idea and makes later cleaning much easier. Milton is good for sterilising the inside of the hives and a good scrub with a strong soda solution soon removes any propolis and wax.

I put vaseline on the in-contact surfaces but didn't think of the runners!!
What sort of varnish please. That seems a good idea if the bees are OK with it as you suggest.
More fiddling in the winter :)
 
There is no need to varnish the insides as the bees do it themselves with propolis.

Leave them to it.

PH
 
PH, do you change brood boxes every year?
At our BKA meetings the SBA was always banging on about it.
This year I spring cleaned my cedar colonies by giving them a floor and brood change.
 
We never vaseline anything. You do not really want the boxes sliding too easily as you worry every time there is a gale. New boxes do move a bit easily over eachother and are better after a seasons use. The lips though are an issue that never goes away and become a proper PITA after a while. Not talking from ignorance here, we have experimented with both, and the simple flat facing joint is better long term. Irrespective of the maker.

All bees will tend to do well in ANY poly hive, so long as it is made from durable enough material. How the bees do is not really a valid measure as most will perform in an alike manner whatoever amker or pattern you go for. the difference is actually mostly down to how the beekeeper gets on with them and how convenient and fast to use they are, plus his/her sense of aesthetics. (To me some of them are seriously ugly.)

As for vaselining the frame runners.............we HATE the frames sliding too easily on the plastic runners, and sometimes are forced to run a rasp across them to rough them a bit to stop that (when both frames and runners are new is worst). We do not have time to get a spirit level out every time we place a hive, and any sideslip at all the frames that are new and on plastic slide to one side, and can even, if one end moves, drop into the box diring examinations. Gnashing of teeth time.

The Swienty ones we use are made with runners. I would actually prefer the old style frame rests like in the original boxes PH uses and of which we have a few, where they are simply moulded with the poly at the correct level for the frames to rest directly on it (like most non UK wooden hives too, where runners are not normal). The frames slide fine on them when levered gently across with the hive tool, but there is sufficient resistance there for them not to set off on their own, or be too easy to shift.


PH is also correct about the varnishing. The bees do it themselves with a thin layer of propolis...........you cannot see it on the beads but they also try to smooth off the interior and varnish more thickly between the beads, and there is is plainly visible. They do not like the plastic material as their inner surface and thus put this skin on it. FWIW, if you think this is a 'See! the bees prefer wood!' moment, then no, they dont like wood either and do it just the same. I suspect its a hygeine issue, and varnishing it is a mechanism to avoid the nooks and crannies that unwelcome organisms could lurk in.
 
This is a very interesting post for me because I would like to change to poly hives. At present, I use 14x12s but have not decided between staying with them or changing to Langs. I only know of two makes of 14x12, P's which I do not favour and the expensive alternative from Beehive Sups which I have not seen. Both are bottom bee space which I do not like. MB told me they may make a 14x12 box next year maybe, but now I hear of the lip!
Has anyone tried the medium size Lang option, using the same size box for brood and supers? Then I could choose Sw**nty or HoneyP (If I could find a supplier)or others.
 
I'm a total newbie beek and decided to go down the poly MB lang route earlier this year after being convinced of the insulation benefits.

I have worked a bit with my mates smiths and national hives and I dont see any difference to ease of inspections etc. Although the lip can be a wee bit annoying, hearing that crunch of bees is never pleasant, I found that it was not a problem after using it for a few months and I find with a bit of care it is easy to avoid deaths.

I imagine if you had lots then it might get a bit annoying with the lip if you were in a rush.
 
MB told me they may make a 14x12 box next year maybe, but now I hear of the lip!

Been saying that since they first started selling poly hives, as have others. I wanted a commercial poly and got the same response "Maybe next year"

I went with 14X12 which has meant a frame change, but as I have a small apiary it has not been too expensive. Two more colonies will get a shook swarm into poly 14X12's hives next year.
 
Sorry guys.

As mentioned more than once the moulds are expensive. If the projected sales are say 1000, and the mould costs £10,000 for each hive part.... how fast are you going to go into that business?

The curse of the UK is fragmentation. Hence as ITLD very neatly expounded on the price of kit here. Every one wants their favourite shape, so none of the makers can buckle down and do runs of 100k at a time. It is in fact all about time and a very small market.

Try asking Heinz for fifty cans of pineapple soup....

PH
 
beebopalula - Rooftops on here uses MB medium langs for all boxes (has posted nice pics in past).

re moulds - at least MB now have a feeder for the 6 frame LS nuc (presumably these have shown enough demand across markets to justify the tooling).
 
beebopalula - Rooftops on here uses MB medium langs for all boxes (has posted nice pics in past).

re moulds - at least MB now have a feeder for the 6 frame LS nuc (presumably these have shown enough demand across markets to justify the tooling).

ITLD uses swienty LS full across his poly's, looked a good setup. If the extractors where a lot cheaper I think I would probably gone for this instead of LS 1/1 Full and Dadant super (didn't release that's what they were at first as they were refered to as 3/4).
 
"If the extractors where a lot cheaper"

my 12 frame LS from Giordan cost £400 (direct) last year - including 3 tangential inserts for jumbo frames.
 
If you place the super at a slight angle to the brood box etc below, you can wait or smoke the bees out of the way before gently rotating the super into place, thus avoiding the horrid bee crunch...
 
"If the extractors where a lot cheaper"

my 12 frame LS from Giordan cost £400 (direct) last year - including 3 tangential inserts for jumbo frames.

Does that do full brood frame's ie 12 frames? I was under the impression they dont but probably got it wrong from the sounds of it.
 
yep - mine takes 12 LS and dadant supers and LS brood. 3 LS or Dadant jumbos.

it is big though!!!!
 
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yep - mine takes 12 LS and dadant supers and LS brood. 3 LS or Dadant jumbos.

it is big though!!!!

Sweet im taking this thread off topic though for my personal gains =). You couldnt let me know which model it was as on there site there's quite a few.

Thanks,
Chris
 

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