Advice on hive wood protection please

[Amari]

For the first 28 years I had cedar Langstroths which I never painted. 12 years ago I sold up, moved county, and purchased untreated deal (softwood) Nationals - possibly false economy. They are weathering not too badly but sometimes coming apart at the corners - in retrospect because I did not nail correctly - and sometimes slight warping. I'm now wondering whether to apply protection, especially after reading a post a few weeks ago that pointed out that wet wood will allow more hive-heat to escape. Grateful for advice on whether it's worth the bother and if so what to use. I read that microporous paint allows water vapour (but prob not water itself) to move in both directions so maybe that could be bad in wet weather.

 

[Gilberdyke John]

For the first 28 years I had cedar Langstroths which I never painted. 12 years ago I sold up, moved county, and purchased untreated deal (softwood) Nationals - possibly false economy. They are weathering not too badly but sometimes coming apart at the corners - in retrospect because I did not nail correctly - and sometimes slight warping. I'm now wondering whether to apply protection, especially after reading a post a few weeks ago that pointed out that wet wood will allow more hive-heat to escape. Grateful for advice on whether it's worth the bother and if so what to use. I read that microporous paint allows water vapour (but prob not water itself) to move in both directions so maybe that could be bad in wet weather.

You seem to have answered your own question about the corners opening up due to poor nailing as to the microporous paint, it's my understanding it excludes rain but allows the wood to breathe. Give it a try on one - you have not much to lose and lots to gain.

 

[pargyle]

For the first 28 years I had cedar Langstroths which I never painted. 12 years ago I sold up, moved county, and purchased untreated deal (softwood) Nationals - possibly false economy. They are weathering not too badly but sometimes coming apart at the corners - in retrospect because I did not nail correctly - and sometimes slight warping. I'm now wondering whether to apply protection, especially after reading a post a few weeks ago that pointed out that wet wood will allow more hive-heat to escape. Grateful for advice on whether it's worth the bother and if so what to use. I read that microporous paint allows water vapour (but prob not water itself) to move in both directions so maybe that could be bad in wet weather.

Or protect them from the rain and stop the heat loss altogether with one of DerekM's Kingspan 'Hive Bonnets'. ???

 

[hedgerow pete]

theres several stickies on hive painting, try them for ideas,

 

[Hivemaker.]

They are weathering not too badly but sometimes coming apart at the corners - in retrospect because I did not nail correctly - and sometimes slight warping.

You would of been better screwing them, even although there would of been greater heat loss using screws, as opposed to nails.

Screws increase heat loss compared to nails.

 

[Tom Bick]

For the first 28 years I had cedar Langstroths which I never painted. 12 years ago I sold up, moved county, and purchased untreated deal (softwood) Nationals - possibly false economy. They are weathering not too badly but sometimes coming apart at the corners - in retrospect because I did not nail correctly - and sometimes slight warping. I'm now wondering whether to apply protection, especially after reading a post a few weeks ago that pointed out that wet wood will allow more hive-heat to escape. Grateful for advice on whether it's worth the bother and if so what to use. I read that microporous paint allows water vapour (but prob not water itself) to move in both directions so maybe that could be bad in wet weather.

All my spare kit is cedar and requires no attention for another decade or two, but decided last year to start to freshen them up and after a light sand I gave them a quick coat of linseed oil and right now the boxes that have had the oil the water is bouncing off them. Easy, cheap, simple and you have the advantage of not covering the timber.

 

[REDWOOD]

I had a few spare boxes of polytop nails in the shed which are great for nailing from the top and bottom corners into the lugs on the rail ends, I find the ends don't open when I do this, the plastic tops I remove with a pliers
http://www.polytops.com/

 

[Amari]

Thanks everyone for these ideas

 

[Jed D]

Cuprinol Ducksback works for us....

 

[VEG]

Thats what I use Jed d

 

[Amari]

Thanks, never heard of it but will give it a go.

 

[Jed D]

Amari

B & Q have it on a special price at the moment £12.00 , 5 litre can....

http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/paint-...back-Woodland-Moss-5L-11348379?skuId=11858589

Just had a look, only seems to be Forest Moss on special price..

Hi Mr Veg
I'm only using Ducksback , copying Pete D.....
Last year I made five nationals ,sanded them down with 180 sand paper..
Then polished them with a blend of Bees Wax & Linseed...

They looked really Fab till winter !!!!
Now fading with a hint of Green !!!!
So , I've now made 5 more ready for my Spring clean.
These five are being painted with green Ducksback.
As soon as I can swop them over , I'll paint the other five..

 

[Amari]

Many thanks Jed D
Looks good and I like the colour but all B&Qs in this part of East Anglia are out of stock. Must have been a run on it.

 

[Jed D]

Hey that was me....
After spotting the special price , I grabbed a few..

 

[Amari]

Hey that was me....
After spotting the special price , I grabbed a few..

Just ordered a tin of Forest Green (hope it doesn't dazzle the bees!) for £11.50 from Amazon with free delivery - not that I approve of them dodging paying UK taxes.