|13th November 2008, 12:03 AM||#2|
If it was in the actual brood then it was most likely chalk brood,but if it was around the edges it could be some ivy honey that has not been capped and has granulated,there is a lot of this in hives at the moment,very white.If it is chalkbrood then do not worry as lots of colonys get the odd cells of chalkbrood.As long as your hive is quite strong they should be fine.
Let the bees tell you. BA.
|14th November 2008, 07:14 AM||#5|
Beekeepers does not understand how severity is chalkbrood:
* it slows down the spring build up
* the hive looses weeks to forage surplus
* mostly the hive will be healed when summer gets warm. In that case the hive is too late to become a good forager.
It may grow a huge hive but it consumes honey in brood rearing (- lack of old foragers)
* There is no chemical which heal (folks talk and belive many hings)
* only way is to find a stock which is resistant to disease
* Rear queens so much that you may cast away sensitive queens
* Cast away queens, which show sensitiveness in drone brood area
unweed the C-B sensitive genes from bee stock.
I had bad C-B in my yard 15 years and I go rid off with crossings.
Last summer one hive had disease in Brood area and I kicked queen off.
In Ethiopia C-B is only in drone brood.
The disease burst even in one comb when brood catch cold (nursing temp)
Last edited by Finman; 14th November 2008 at 07:19 AM.
|14th November 2008, 05:29 PM||#6|
Test done in germany by sraying syrup/thymol mix onto combs and bee's caused them to clean out chalk brood mummies,and this would also stop chalkbrood,i have tried this in the past and it works,but only for a while,so anyone who reads this method and tries it,it is not a cure.
Let the bees tell you. BA.
|14th November 2008, 06:03 PM||#7|
Maarec , 6 universities from USA - says "No treatment is presently available for control. In some cases, chalkbrood can be reduced by requeening colonies with a young queen."
You may get an idea about "working method" because mostly chalkbrood will be healed by itself in warm summer month.
It bursts again when you have 3 weeks rainy and cold.
Last edited by Finman; 14th November 2008 at 06:21 PM.
|14th November 2008, 06:16 PM||#8|
I get rid off the chalkbrood :
* I byed several new strains of queens to get resistant genes
* I kept in queen mating nucs contaminated floors that all nuc get disease at once.
* I destoyed all queen which's larvae showed sign of disease or spotted brood area.
* I destroyed first year 50% of young queens for C-B.
Many mother queens showed chalkbrood in every daugter.
I must weed the from drone line and from queen line.
Last edited by Finman; 14th November 2008 at 06:19 PM.
|14th November 2008, 07:18 PM||#10|
With Carnica 7 years off 10 swarming was not a problem. 3 years of 10 were catastrophe.
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