Cuprinol Preservative

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Roger

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I emailed Cuprinol Technical Centre asking if Cuprinol Clear was still suitable for use on beehives and received the following reply on 27/01/09


?Beehives
Cuprinol has commissioned a study at the National Bee Unit of the Central Science Laboratory to evaluate the new formulation.

Cuprinol Garden Wood Preserver (DP) Red Cedar and Cuprinol Trade Decorative Wood Preserver (T) Red Cedar were applied by brush application and Cuprinol Trade Low Odour Wood Preserver Clear was applied by dip coating.

In all cases treated hive parts showed no toxicity (up to 6 weeks from treatment) to bees or brood after exposure to these hive parts.

Do not treat outside of hives whilst bees are in the hive!

Decorative Preserver can also be used on external surfaces.

Avoid G S & F /Exterior Preserver as may taint honey.?


I hope this helps and if there is anything else I can help with please call me on 0870 242 1100

Regards
Omar Amjad
Technical Advisor
Technical Advice Centre,
Akzo Nobel,
Wexham Road,
Slough, Berkshire
SL2 5DS
Phone: +44 (0)870 444 1111 (DIY)
+44 (0)870 242 1100 (Trade)
Fax: +44 (0) 870 444 0660


Thought this would be of interest especially now when people are thinking about preparing new or used equipment for new season.

I believe that it is important to ensure any preservative used on beehives does not contain insecticide.

"Do not use a harmful product under any circumstance, as it will be impossible to remove it from the wood later." - British Beekeepers Association Advisory Leaflet Number B7

Roger
 
Do you have the technical data for sadolin,RE beehives
 
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Sorry I have no info on any other wood preservatives.

I had previously used Cuprinol Clear and just wanted to check it was still ok to use as the formulation of many similar products had changed in recent years.

I did email another company a year or so ago, I think it was Barrettine, as their products were available locally and cheaper than Cuprinol, however they advised me at that time they had no data regarding the suitability of their products for use on beehives and advised me to contact a beekeeping organization for advice.

As Cuprinol has had some testing for safety on beehives I continue to use their Trade Clear and if necessary for additional protection or appearance use Linseed Oil or Danish Oil.

Roger
 
Hi all
I have just built two hives and have painted them with linseed paint, I have been told just to recoat with linseed oil when required and the hive's will stay as good as new.

I will keep you posted


John
 
I think the trick with all this stuff and gloss paint for that matter is to make sure that it is at least six weeks between application and puting any bees in them.
 
all gloss paint used to be made with linseed oil but they have moved over to other chemicals and or water bases. the only time i have seen linseed paint in twenty years is on heritage work were we reuse the old type construction materials like lime
 
The Cuprinol web site now states that they can no longer recommend any of their products for bee hives, as EU regulations have meant that had to change the formulation. This does not mean that they are unsafe, only that they have not yet retested the new formulations.
 
I bought some S/H equipment a couple of years ago which was cuprinoled prior to collection and again by me before use, It has had bees in it for over 12 months before being phased out by me to convert to nucs.

My bees have been fine, as I'm sure have the countless generations of bees before them (this is OLD kit). It was only when I started to machine the wood that I got the unmistakable smell of good old creasote, my point is that as long as any vapours are allowed time to fume off and that only the outside is treated just about anything goes.

I know of experienced and respected beekeepers who use paints and varnishes on hive parts and creasote on stands with no ill effects, they just ensure that any vapours have time to dissipate.
 
I use cuprinol clear on my hives (external only), and ensure that they have had adequate outside ventilation for at least a month.

That said, I have noticed bees investigating hives one week after treatment.
 
For those wanting to paint their new hives made of cedar you may want to consider the following info I found off the IEKO Natural Paint website.

“NB: Some hives are manufactured using cedar wood. Cedar wood is packed full of volatile oils (that is why it has its strong distinctive aroma). These oils give cedar great protection from decay meaning that no finishes are actually necessary for preservation. If however you decide you want to paint your cedar beehive, you must allow it to weather for at least a year before applying paint as the natural VOCs given off by the wood can interfere with the drying processes of many paints. “

They also have a webpage dedicated to paint suitable for bees. Could be of use to some newbees like myself. See below.

http://www.ieko.co.uk/paint-guide/paint-for-beehives

BL
 
My old beekeeping guru now 95, has used creosote on hive exteriors for years, as did his mother before him. These hives have produced generations of healthy and prolific bees, and literally tons of honey. He also believes claims that residual creosote helps prevent varroa. I'm not sure about that, but I agree that bees having old creosote to walk on is less worrying than the chemicals they are likely to ingest and bring home while foraging in gardens and farm crops.
 
"He also believes claims that residual creosote helps prevent varroa."

Interesting, as creosote was used for many years as the most effective way of ridding a chicken hut of red mites ( similar size to Varroa). Not sure what the eggs tasted like though! Did the honey in those days taste of creosote?
 
Spadaman. Back in the 60's when I started bee keeping I used creosote as a hive preservative. In 1966 and 1967 I gained 2nd, 3rd, HC and C at the Surrey County Show, and VHC and HC at the National. I doubt the judges had a poor sense of smell, and I guess that many other beeks who entered their honeys in shows in those days also used creosote.
 
Spadaman. Back in the 60's when I started bee keeping I used creosote as a hive preservative. In 1966 and 1967 I gained 2nd, 3rd, HC and C at the Surrey County Show, and VHC and HC at the National. I doubt the judges had a poor sense of smell, and I guess that many other beeks who entered their honeys in shows in those days also used creosote.
But you can't get creosote these days - can you?
 
Please find below the responce from Cuprinol dated 5th September 2011 on the use of their products for protectimg beehives


"Thank you for your email.


Due to EU legislation Cuprinol has changed the active ingredients which are used in its wood preservers. This has meant a change in formulations.The newer formulations have not been tested for use on beehives and as a result Cuprinol cannot recommend any of its wood preservers on beehives.
It has also been known for woodworm to attack beehives, therefore we do not recommend to use any products that contain insecticides (e.g. Cuprinol Woodworm Killer or Cuprinol 5 Star Complete Wood Treatment) as these are likely to be harmful to bees.

If you have any further queries please feel free to contact me and I will be happy to help.

Kind Regards,

Helen Dooley
Customer Advisor
Technical Advice Centre,
ICI Paints,
Wexham Road,
Slough,
Berkshire,
SL2 5DS,
Phone: +44 (0) 8444 817-817 (DIY)
+44 (0) 8444 817-818 (Trade)
Fax: +44 (0) 8444 817 910
 
Creosote ... probably the best preservative in the world ... Treat exterior surfaces and leave under cover but outside to air.
 
You can still buy creosote. I get it from Mole Valley Farmers in 25 litre containers. I also give my chicken houses a good coating of it, inside and out, once a year or so. Lots of people say how nice our eggs taste, but I don't put the chickens straight into a treated house. It definitely works on the red mite, too.

Of course it may not be quite the same formulation as "original" creosote.

James
 
I've just opened a can of new formula Cuprinol Clear, having used up up my old stock.

Main difference seems to be absence of aroma. Presumably due to change of solvent. Any one using the latest stuff?
 

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