varroa treatment in spring temperature 0-5oC

Hi have removed apigaurd 10 days ago and continue to get high varroa drop.up to 10 per day is this the thymol still working or should I be looking at retreating and what can I us at this time of year and temperature in the west Midlands?? Sorry if this question has been asked a thousand times !!!!

The external temperature should be above 15°C for Apiguard, doubt it will have done much for you over the last month. Apistan/Bayvarol could be used, if you haven't used it for the last few years and aren't in an area with high tolerance?

Thanks ordered some will give it a try ...

Thanks ordered some will give it a try ...


Bad news. Neither should be used if there is a flow on. Early removal of strips, before the full indicated time, is a definite no-no, if you are a respectful/responsible beekeeper.

Read the instructions, and adhere to them carefully.

RAB

spring time varroa treatment 0-5oC

So is it maqs when weather warms up ? Getting 10 mites per day dropping need to do something??? The question was posted to ask advise ....the web sites say it could be used during honey flow !! Help required please

A case for a shook swarm, perhaps - when it gets a bit warmer?


I have a colony with a higher than desirable varroa drop.
I'll probably do a shook swarm as soon as is acceptable.
That would also address the danger of swarming.


I'd like the view of other, more experienced beeks on that idea.


Dusty

Vapourise oxalic three times at five day intervals now or MAQS when warmer. That's what I would consider.

newpete said:

Hi have removed apigaurd 10 days ago and continue to get high varroa drop.up to 10 per day ...

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1/ When did you put it on? What temperatures have you seen while it has been on? What temperatures do the instructions specify?
It is a treatment that needs to be maintained through more than one complete brood cycle for effectiveness. Cold (preventing vaporisation) dramatically limits the effectiveness.
Insulation (or a polyhive) somewhat reduces the sensitivity to external conditions.

2/ Bayvarol and Apistan can be used in current temperatures, BUT BUT BUT they are nasty, persistent pesticides you should be trying to keep away from your bees. They were a very popular treatment when varroa first appeared and people were just looking for anything that worked. Then (helped by people not using them properly/safely) varroa became resistant to them. Avoiding using them (and removing pesticide-contaminated wax) allows the varroa to lose their resistance (over a period of a few years).
So it is best NEVER to use them, reserving them for real emergency use.

3/ MAQS can be used without contaminating honey (or wax). But it (like Thymol-based products) needs a bit of warmth to vaporise. Again, insulation gives warmer hive air in cold weather and thus extends its operating temperature window (though I personally suspect it may make for overtreatment later in the season).
It has the further advantage of being a quick treatment (only a week) - ALTHOUGH (uniquely to Formic acid/MAQS) dead varroa from brood cells will continue to drop for three weeks or so (a brood cycle) - so don't panic when the drop doesn't stop sharply after treatment.

4/ 10/day is a highish varroa drop, but it isn't panic stations.

5/ My two alternative suggestions are EITHER to wait until the weather warms up enough to treat with MAQS or Apiguard, or to obtain some Apivar.
---- Note that Apivar has no connection with ApilifeVar (a totally different and Thymol-based treatment) too many people confuse these products.
----- And note that, being obtained through the euro 'cascade authorisation' system, it isn't available at your local bee shop. Search the forum for more info ...

Itma , would you consider the chemical in apivar to be just as "nasty" ? I used to use it for the control of demodectic mange in dogs and it was horrid stuff!

Erichalfbee said:

Itma , would you consider the chemical in apivar to be just as "nasty" ? I used to use it for the control of demodectic mange in dogs and it was horrid stuff!

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The principal benefit it has is non-persistance and lack of residues in wax.
Second thing is that it is (relatively) uncommon in the UK, so less chance of the mites in question being Amitraz resistant.
I think I'd rather use it that Bayvarol/Apistan, but I'd only use it in a special situation.

As I said, a drop of "up to 10/day" doesn't - on its own - sound like panic stations, justifying extreme measures. However, if I was seeing deformed wings through the see-through coverboard ...

treatment

Only had bees three weeks they look great and busy,so api guard when temp 15 deg ?
Vivienne

vivienne13 said:

Only had bees three weeks they look great and busy,so api guard when temp 15 deg ?
Vivienne

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Why do it at all just because you've got some bees for the first time? When you acquired your bees did you not ask about treatments they had had? That should tell you if you need to anything at all. Thymol treatment is usually for Autumn when there is no honey to contaminate. Oxalic is the other treatment usually reserved for when there is no brood ie late December or early Jan. Suggest you get hold of the pdf of BBKA "Managing Varroa" before you contemplate doing anything at this time of year when brood build-up is in full swing.

vivienne13 said:

Only had bees three weeks they look great and busy,so api guard when temp 15 deg ?
Vivienne

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I agree with Arfermo - plus, have you counted the varroa drop to see if there is a problem?

Dusty

newpete said:

Hi have removed apigaurd 10 days ago and continue to get high varroa drop.up to 10 per day is this the thymol still working or should I be looking at retreating and what can I us at this time of year and temperature in the west Midlands?? Sorry if this question has been asked a thousand times !!!!

Click to expand...

newpete said:

Thanks ordered some [Apivar] will give it a try ...

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Really, it isn't a good idea to give too many treatments too close together.

varroa treatment in spring temperature 0-5oC
I presume that's a typo and you mean 0-5C. If so you've wasted your money by using apiguard which will only be effective in temperatures above 15C for 24 hours at a time. Read the instructions carefully, and think carefully about the products you're putting in your hive - when you and your friends and family might be eating some of the honey later in the season.

You can find information on Beebase http://www.nationalbeeunit.com/index.cfm?pageid=167

There are now five relevant booklets, you should read them all to know and understand all options for dealing with varroa.

Using Artificial Swarming for Varroa Control pdf
Using Drone Brood Removal for Varroa Control pdf
Using Integrated Pest Management for Varroa Control pdf
Varroa Control Using Organic Acids pdf
and
Veterinary Medicines Administration Record pdf

.

vivienne13 said:

Only had bees three weeks they look great :

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Good heavens you advisors. What are you doing! A new beek has had 3 weeks a hive and you are allready giving advices how to destroy yhe hive! - Without knowing anything about hive.

He just asked, can he do something to mites?

oliver90owner said:

Thanks ordered some will give it a try ...


Bad news. Neither should be used if there is a flow on. Early removal of strips, before the full indicated time, is a definite no-no, if you are a respectful/responsible beekeeper.

Read the instructions, and adhere to them carefully.

RAB

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Our RBI has told people to use it on heavy infested hives at thiis time of year, what is Best practice ( not to use) differs from what is allowed by the VMD rules

Time and Duration of Use
Best efficacy is to be expected when Bayvarol is used in late summer after the honey harvest. Ideally the strips should not be used during the peak honey flow periods. However, Bayvarol can be used at any time of the year for diagnosis or in severe infestations where there is a threat to the survival of the colony.

full VMD leaflet attached, but and big but, i would not eat the honey, even though the withdrawal period in zero days