honey warmer thermostat which one?

Solvent based grab adhesive is what I use. However I now use a table saw to get good cuts. Any circular saw will give a good edge. Even a bread knife. But the last two need a straight edge to work against

Is there a sketch anywhere or instructions of how to go about setting one of these up?

I understand the constructions (especially with kingspan), and can wire things up, but don't understand electronics to understand the magic in the wires.

psafloyd said:

Is there a sketch anywhere or instructions of how to go about setting one of these up?

Click to expand...

Depends what you've got.

For the STC1000, there are just 4 adjustable control parameters --
- the set temperature
- the "difference set temperature" (which is how far off target it needs to be before the controller reacts). For a physical thermostat, this would be very close to nothing, risking it switching on and off rapidly as the target was approached. The preset difference of 0.5 degree means that the temperature has to fall to half a degree below target before the heater switches on again, saving any twitchiness when the target is reached. (You can alter this "difference set", bigger for even less twitchy.)
- the compressor delay. This is for cooling, which you aren't needing. refrigeration compressors really don't like being switched on and off rapidly, so you can specify a minimum time delay. Ignore for heating.
- and then there's the possibility of giving it a calibration offset. If you have a super-accurate thermometer to run alongside it, you can adjust the STC1000 to read the same (to 0.1 degree) if you want to.


If you've acquired a "3-term" (PID) controller, use autotune, and be prepared to have to learn a lot about the subject if it doesn't work nicely.

A simple temperature controller like the STC1000 should be perfectly adequate - and can be had on eBay for £7.37 inc delivery from China!

PS - the relay inside the STC1000 is rated at 5 amps -- so about 1 kilowatt on mains.
Which is NOT meaty enough to control a Burco boiler, or similar ... but plenty strong enough to switch a typical light bulb type heater.

Just sayin' - having read another post of yours in a different area of the forum!

I use a 0-60C capillary thermostat from Modus gauges. Works really well and it was around £15. I use a 100W ribbon cable instead of a light bulb, more even heat distribution.

Sent from my HTC One mini using Tapatalk

Hi,

Could you please give the link you got your ribbon cable from please.

Thanks

psafloyd said:

Is there a sketch anywhere or instructions of how to go about setting one of these up?

I understand the constructions (especially with kingspan), and can wire things up, but don't understand electronics to understand the magic in the wires.

Click to expand...

Sorry just noticed this now. With the STC1000 I followed the diagrams on brewuk's forum (just didn't wire the cool circuit up).

http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2804 and diagram over on different thread - http://www.brewuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?p=40852#p40852

I've built a honey warming cabinet, for warming up granulated OSR honey, for creaming, but before ruining my honey, I need to test, adjust thermostat, and check temperatures etc, I've currently put in two x 1 gallon demo johns, filled with water, what temperature should I try to achieve? (max). I understand about stirring to avoid host spots......

Its a good job I'm only testing with water filled demo johns, it got up to 60 degrees C last night!

You can see by the graphs, I let it warm up overnight, and then turned it off this am, and let it cool.

This is temperature of the air in the box, I need to check the temp of the water...