Have I a problem with my Mead

Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum

Help Support Beekeeping & Apiculture Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

MikeT

Field Bee
Joined
Oct 19, 2014
Messages
645
Reaction score
0
Location
West Norfolk
Hive Type
National
Number of Hives
5
Started some mead off 3 wks ago. Used 3lb of very dark honey, approx. 50 raison, lemon juice, general purpose yeast, made up to 1 gal. Stated to ferment well with continuous bubbles through air lock. Today I noticed it had almost stopped bubbling. I was expecting the fermentation to last much longer. The demijohn has been kept on top of the Ground Source Heat pump which keeps it at about 23 -25oC.

I now have about 15mm of sediment at the bottom of the demijohn

Help will be greatly appreciated.

Mike
 
Started some mead off 3 wks ago. Used 3lb of very dark honey, approx. 50 raison, lemon juice, general purpose yeast, made up to 1 gal. Stated to ferment well with continuous bubbles through air lock. Today I noticed it had almost stopped bubbling. I was expecting the fermentation to last much longer. The demijohn has been kept on top of the Ground Source Heat pump which keeps it at about 23 -25oC.

I now have about 15mm of sediment at the bottom of the demijohn

Help will be greatly appreciated.

Mike

Check the Specific Gravity ... if the years has fermented out all the sugar then the fermentation will stop .... the only proper way to check is by checking the SG ... as a rule of thumb an SG below about 1000 is getting towards a dry wine ... below 990 it's getting very dry (according to your taste).

If it has already fermented out then you could try adding a little more sugar which may start the yeast acting again and will increase the alcohol level in the mead ... you should really invest in a wine hydrometer as you can then be fairly certain (by calculating the drop in SG between start and finish and the amount of 'sugar' in the original must) what percentage of alcohol you end up with.

Commercial white wines are somewhere between 9% and 13% alcohol - above that the alcohol normally will stop any further fermentation.

Look up for CJJ Berry 'First Steps In Winemaking' ... tells you the whole story and is the bible for any budding wine maker ... free download somewhere I think .. my battered paperback copy is held together with yeast and grape juice !! I could probably make a palatable wine out of what is left in it !!
 
Checked SG of the mead today 995 and tastes dry. It is taking a long time to clear, should I use some finings?
 
Don't know if you used a yeast nutrient but it's a big help for the yeast especially on mead. I do a primary fermentation in a brewing bucket before the secondary fermentation with air lock fitted. The primary fermentation gives the yeast plenty of space and oxygen to expand this fermentation lasts 4-5 days and can be very rapid with a big head of froth produced. If this rapid fermentation takes place with the air lock fitted it can result in foam been pushed out of the air lock and splashed over everything in close proximity. You may think it has stopped but monitor the bubble as you may be getting a bubble every few mins or even hour and it's still fermenting although it be slow. From the photo it looks fine and starting to clear you could rack it off to remove most of the sediment. I have found that mead sometimes sets of at great speed but also slows down to a crawl very fast.
 
Looks to me as though it is still on the gross lees, so at least needs racking. On top of a changing heat source will not aid clearing. Somewhere consitently cool would be better.

Finings don't always work too well if there is still residual dissolved carbon dioxide, so prolly needs degassing or leaving for a few weeks/months. Only two months, from starting fermentation, is not a long time in terms of winemaking.

Be aware when racking, if finished, that any void in the new vessel will be air - and air is not good for wine, well at least the oxygen isn't - so racking to two smaller vessels might be good. I make rather more than single demijohns, which can usually be racked to demis, 'hemi' demis and perhaps a bottle. You will regret only finishing with 5 or 6 bottles if it turns out to be a cracker!

Your fermentation temperature was, IMO, a fair bit on the high side; but someone may well be along shortly to say it is perfectly OK. I normally ferment at around 18C, even though I know of one wine kit supplier where all lab ferments are carried out in a temperature-controlled room at 22C.

RAB
 
I'm not much of a mead maker or wine for that matter but last year and the same this year the mead seems to go like hell for 3-4 weeks and then slows down to a bubble a minute and 12 weeks later it has completely stopped bubbling and cleared. I don't know if that's the right or wrong way but everyone seems to like it and they even find the stash for the competitions lol
 
:iagree:
For white wines between 18-20c, anything higher and you might interfere with the delicate flavours. Red wine you can get away with using a higher temp, although over 29c you will kill the yeast.

best homebrew beer i made (long time ago) was done at lower temperatures,
when i tried to go faster with higher temperatures (20+) the flavour was inferior.
 
All the above advice is spot on ... Take it away from the heat source, rack it to get rid of the bulk of the lees - at 995 it is going to be a fairly dry mead.

It sounds very much like most of the fermentable sugar has fermented out so, if you want a sweeter mead you could add some more honey (or sugar) to bring the SG up to say 1000 and let it go off again ... (after racking ~ but leave a small amount of the lees in the demijon as the yeast will be needed to start the ferment again) ... you will end up with a more alcoholic mead but if you want a sweeter one you can either keep the fermentation going until the alcohol content stops the yeast working or you can 'kill' the yeast at the sweetness you prefer with a camden tablet. Whatever you do I would not use finings at this stage ... it will clear on it's own eventually but a cooler place will be needed for it to clear completely.
 
Not bubbling

Didn't want to start a new thread so …..

It's my first time making mead. I used 4-5 lbs of honey. 24 raisins, champagne yeast, lemon zest, a little lemon juice and filled it up with filtered water. It bubbled OK for a week but never very vigorous where there is a huge amount of froth. Two weeks later and it's stopped bubbling but I can still hear it fizzing.

I saw somewhere I can add more yeast and this time, doing more research, I added some D-47 last night. Nothing!!! No bubbling.

Just checked with hydrometer and 1.06?

So what's happening. Two lots of yeast and nothing much happening. Would it help if I perhaps gave it a good shake to introduce some more air and add some yeast nutrient as well as this shop sold me some.

Advice appreciated. Thks
 
Give us a hint - what volume? Guessing it is in a demijohn, but how full might explain things a bit.

Was it four, or five, pounds of honey? Quite important

What was the initial specific gravity? Am doubting you checked.

If five the yeast may be getting close to its alcohol tolerance. It may well finish verrry sweeet!

I am doubting 24 raisins was sufficient nutrient and it likely needs some acid as well.

If fizzing, it is still fermenting.
 
Hi Rab

Yes. All placed into one demijohn - stopped 2 inches from the top. It was near 4 1/2 lb of honey. I unfortunately didn't check the gravity at the start as these online recipes seem to indicate it's straight fwd and works every time.
I did add the zest of one lemon and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and now this evening I've just added a teaspoon of yeast nutrient. Still no life after a few hours.

I expected it to be bubbling away for a good few weeks before it quietened down.
 
We are talking about mead not beer. Different type of yeast as well.

its a relatively simple sugar/s + yeast =alcohol.
meads can be beer strength to wine strength and have almost owt put in them... so I dont think you can blanket say mead has nowt to to do with beer brewing.

Cider and perry brewing now that is very different as there is potentially more than just a sugars + yeast fermentation going on.
 
Hi Rab

Yes. All placed into one demijohn - stopped 2 inches from the top. It was near 4 1/2 lb of honey. I unfortunately didn't check the gravity at the start as these online recipes seem to indicate it's straight fwd and works every time.
I did add the zest of one lemon and 2 tablespoons of lemon juice and now this evening I've just added a teaspoon of yeast nutrient. Still no life after a few hours.

I expected it to be bubbling away for a good few weeks before it quietened down.

That's probably your first problem ... Yeast is a living organism and needs some (although not a lot) oxygen to really get going in mead ... with an airlock on the bottle and only 2" space you were really restricting the original fermentation and creating a lot of CO2 above the must. Really best to start it off in a bucket with a lid you can take off or leave loose. Rab was hinting at this I think.

Second problem is not knowing what your original SG was - without that you really can't measure the alcohol by volume and it may be that you have just created too strong a mead and the alcohol level has stopped the fermentation. At the final SG you have it's either going to be very sweet (worth tasting it) or not very alcoholic.

You might try a yeast starter with a little sugar dissolved in water, some yeast and a bit of nutrient ... once that is bubbling away in a jam jar or something tip the mead you have made into a bucket and add the yeast starter, give it a good stir and pop it in a warmish place for a day or two and see if it starts to ferment ... if it does then when it slows down you can rack it into a demijohn and leave it to finish with a bubble trap.

It might be a lost cause unless you like sweet or not very alcoholic mead ... 5lbs of honey to less than a gallon of water is a bit on the top side for most mead recipes. Where did you find it ?
 
Last edited:
Thanks guys. Didn't know what a yeast starter was so looked it up and found this extract;

".....a starter properly made, using water, a small quantity of the must itself or a juice substitute (grape, orange or apple juice) and some nutrients, will acclimate the yeast to its destined environment. When the starter is added to the primary, it will practically explode with activity and do what nature and selection programmed it to do and do it that much more efficiently.

The correct method of making a starter is to rehydrate the yeast, activate its life cycle, and add it to the must. The optimum way to rehydrate the yeast is to add it directly to 1 cup of 100-105-degree F. tap or spring water (the harder the water the better; do not use distilled water). Stir gently, cover, allow to rehydrate for at least 30 minutes, check on it to be sure it is viable, and then leave it another 3 1/2 hours. During this time, allow the starter and must (or fruit juice) to attemperate to within 10 degrees F. of one another, and then add to the starter 1/4 cup of pre-sweetened, reconstituted juice (not pure concentrate) or strained must. Re-cover the starter, set it in a warm place and leave it alone. Check on it 4 hours later to ensure it is viable and add to it another 1/4 cup of juice or strained must. Again, cover and leave it alone for 4 hours. You can now add it to the must or add another 1/2 cup of juice or strained must to really increase the yeast population (at the end of an additional 4 hours, the colony will be approximately 64 times as large as it was when rehydrated). For highly acidic (native grapes) or potentially troublesome musts or juices (like blueberry, peach, or Ribena blackcurrant), the more must you add to the starter, the better acclimated the yeast will be to the conditions they will be living in. There are other methods of starting a culture and most are just as successful, but this method, only slightly varied, was recommended by George Clayton Cone of Lallemand, the makers of Lalvin wine yeasts, and that is good enough an endorsement for me.

Lallemand's scientists found that some musts and juices contain sprays, toxins and excessive SO2 that can be detrimental to the activity of yeast. The dry yeast is like a sponge for the first few seconds in liquid and will absorb everything into the cell that it would normally reject in the rehydrated form. Many home winemakers add the ADY culture directly to the must or juice and get away with it. However, many times it is the beginning of a sluggish or stuck fermentation. There are over 150 billion yeast cells in a 5-gram packet of Lallemand yeast. If you kill off half of them by improper rehydration, you still have 75 billion cells to work with. This 75 billion will go on to do a good job most of the time, but whatever killed off the other 75 billion may have seriously affected the health of the survivors."

I think I'll try resurrect my first batch by following the above advice and start a 2nd batch as my insurance. Live and learn.

Thanks.
 
Last edited:
http://www.rivercottage.net/recipes/traditional-mead-honey-wine/

This same recipe says fill up to 2inches from the top. How full should one fill ones demijohns then?

It certainly does ... but the problem with sites like River Cottage is that anyone can add a recipe and unless it's got a few positive reviews you can never tell whether it's any good or not. It may have worked for the person who put it on there but a lot of 'natural' things work in spite of what we do to them rather than because of what we do to them !

If you get a good vigorous start to your mead fermentation then it will be too much for a demijohn with an airlock to cope with. So, it's best for this (and other wines where there is a high initial sugar load or masses of fruit pulp to be initially fermented) to give the must a nice big surface area and regular vents to the atmosphere for the first few days - hence a plastic food grade bucket with a lid loosely on is ideal. Once the initial fermentation dies down you can rack it into the demijohn and at that stage (when there is little or no froth at the top) you can safely top it up to just about an inch below the bottom of the neck of the demijohn and stick your airlock in and let it get on with it. Not forgetting to keep the water level in the airlock topped up as it will evaporate.

The recipe for a yeast starter you have found is excellent but probably more for commercial quantities .. I do largely the same but just get the yeast started in a jam jar in a single process ... You can see when the yeast has really got going as it will froth up in the jar ... that's the point when you want to stir it into your mead must.

There will be plenty of other ways of doing it ... and lots of different (and occasionally outrageous) recipes for mead that you will find on the net. The key to getting it right is to record what you did and the quantities/dates you did it so that you know what you did when it goes right (or tragically wrong !) and you can change the recipe/method next time. If you make a habit of recording the SG initially and then every few days - particularly when it is in the demijohn - I use a luggage label attached to the handles on the DJ and write the date and SG on it as the fermentation progresses. Then you will see the pattern of fermentation and will know when it's reached your preferred level of dryness or sweetness according to your taste. If you prefer a particularly sweet or medium taste you can stop the fermentation at the required point.

Good luck ... you'll get there. Winemaking is a bit like beekeeping - many ways of achieving the same result and we all get it wrong sometimes - natures way of reminding us that she only tolerates us tampering with her on her terms - once in a while she bites back !
 
Thanks for that comprehensive advice Pargyle - much appreciate it!!

So when you measure the SG periodically do you always return the fluid back to the demijohn or throw it out?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top